Of course you can’t. Lots of info missing. Based on the scant info provided (I’ve seen worse), here is what I’ve been able determine…
Sell Price 102000.00 … (dealer discount = 29845?)
Acq Fee 925.00
Gross Cap 102925.00
CCR 11962.09
Adj. Cap 90962.91
MF = .00113 (confirmed via calculation)
RV = 68824.71
Term = 36
Sales Tax Rate = 10.50%
Rebate = 11900.00
Base Pay = .00113 x (90962.91 + 68824.71) + (90962.91 - 68824.71) /36
= 795.51
Pay w/tax = 795.51 x 1.1050 = 879.04
Lease Inception Fees
1st Pay 879.04
Cash CCR 62.09
CCR Tax 1256.03 … 11962.09 x 10.50%
Initial Fees 119.00 … needs to be itemized
Doc Fee 85.00 ???
Doc Fee Tax 8.93
Other Fees 989.91 (gov fees? Tire Fee?) … needs careful scrutiny
Total Fees 3400.00
7 MSD’s 6300.00 … 7 x 900
Total Due (DAS) 9700.00
3400 down means cap reduction (CCR). You’re not putting 3400 down. The 3400 covers upfront fees.
FWIW- Don’t waste time trying to decipher a dealer’s worksheet or chasing after them. Otherwise, you’re allowing them to control the deal. They often omit a lot of relevant detail such as money factor; fees not itemized and even make mistakes. You need to rely on credible outside sources (e.g., LH marketplace and signed deals, Edmunds, etc.). Do your own research and establish a reasonable selling price in your local market. Be sure to get a copy of the factory window sticker. Check for non-factory add-ons or dealer-installed options. And, if possible, eliminate those you don’t need or want. Get a list of all customer and dealer rebates/incentives including VIN#-specific discounts/incentives, if any. And, yes, the dealer has such a list.
The only thing useful about dealer lease worksheets is the input data. All data should be vetted such as acquisition fee, doc fee (regulated by some states), cost of money (e.g., money factor), gov fees, residual, rebates/incentives, sales tax rate, etc. Make sure the residual matches the term and annual mileage requirement. Check available tax credits/incentives via the fund provider who may cover taxes or, at minimum, may assess a lower sales tax rate to energize sales for some models.
Organize all relevant data with the goal of creating a lease proposal that reflects your target deal. The idea is to create your own target deal (proposal), not replicate the dealer’s deal.
Craft a professional-looking one-page lease proposal (example below- the round peg, round hole won’t work) and email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they’re often Mickey D order takers and lack knowledge. Contact the SM via phone first. Introduce yourself and tell him/her that you will send them a one-page lease proposal b/c you want to get a deal done today or tomorrow.
This document will speak volumes about you. When the SM sees your proposal, he/she will immediately know that it’s time to put their toys and board games away and get down to business. All numbers should be accurate otherwise, you’ll lose credibility. Negotiate via phone/email. Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as lease amortization methodology and excess wear/tear criteria. If all is as agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign asap. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.
If the dealer isn’t transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!
Leasing is time-consuming and requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on this website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, be sure to always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.
??? Let me know.