I’ve been making the rounds in WA for an internet sale and only have one written offer so far. Nobody is discounting MSRP around here so I may end up having one shipped, but I’d prefer the convenience of a local sale that will also match the cash offer I have for my current car as a trade-in (the offer I’ve received does).
I’ve run these numbers from their sheet through the calculator (and on Edmunds too) and I keep getting sub $273/month for a lease but the dealership is insisting $407 is the lowest they can go. Any ideas on what shennanigans they’re trying to pull?
Is your calculator accounting for the $799 in aftermarkets? Regardless, this is a solid deal on a 90, and I suggest just taking it before some vulture here snipes you
They’re not offering a pre-incentive discount. They’re giving me base MF and the total incentives are $14,500. When I enter the numbers from their sheet into the calculator I’m getting a monthly payment of $271. CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR
Does WA tax rebates? You have it in the untaxed incentives section. Some of the incentives might be taxable (or all of them potentially)
You also have your tax rate as 0%
Here is the lease with 9.5%:
edit- my calculation did not have $799 for permaplate or anything for government fees (registration etc)
Here’s a better guess with 6.8% sales tax (based on the tax quote in your quote) and $799 into dealer fees plus $250 registration estimate. It then comes out almost exactly as the dealer quotes.
This is a bad deal, I had better luck testing a WA dealer as an out of state customer.
Are you willing to do a 24mo lease?
Did you check you trade equity against carvana/carmax offers?
There are some 2024 models available in WA that have MSRP already marked down that you may be able to negotiate lower.
That fixed it - most of the incentives must be taxed. When I dumped them all into taxed it went over the $407 they quoted. Also, thanks for catching the tax rate was missing - it’s been a long few days and when I opened that version of the calculator in a new tab I forgot to put it in. Definitely needed a second pair of eyes today - appreciate it!
Thanks for that - I am noticing the further from home I get the more responsive the dealers are.
I do have two offers of cash at $20k for my current car (carmax and a local conglomerate dealership) which is what I’ve used to get the dealer to match it for a trade. I said I was open to either a 24 or 36 months, but the terms didn’t seem better for a shorter lease.
Also, I would HIGHLY recommend you do not put $20k of your cars equity into a lease. You run a risk if the lease is totalled of not getting any of that money potentially.
Try taking the trade-in out of the new lease.
You might be better off selling that car to carvana /CarMax.
And 0% off msrp on an outgoing Volvo model is not good.
May be look at the Marketplace
Also, Focusing on a dealer that will give you a strong pre-incentive discount that does MSDs will get you a much better result. At least you will get that $$$ back at lease end.
Instead of asking for a quote, look through the marketplace here, see what a strong discount would be, and offer that to as many local dealers as you can. Start close and work your way out.
I’m not sure on volvo leases but many leases automatically include GAP so don’t pay your insurance for it as well (assuming volvo does include it). The best use of the equity is to pay just the drive off costs (IMO this is 1st payment, registration fees, doc fee and possibly lease acquisition fees) only as its the lowest risk to you. Use equity to apply multiple security deposits (MSD’s) to lower the money factor, you will get that money back at the end and save on interest now. Whatever is left over just keep for a rainy day (maybe a high yield savings account or a CD or something)
