What’s the usual breakdown on this: multiple offers to one dealer, the same offer to multiple dealers, or both? Do sales/finance workers in the auto industry expect to go back and forth with offers or just say, “No thanks” and move on?
Know what car you want, know the target number you’re willing to sign, search for the dealer who has the car, send out the offer. You can send out the same offer again near the end of the month.
Important distinction is that the target offer has to feasible given all of the variables and not pulled out of the air.
Is the 1.25 rule still considered feasible in today’s market. My 400 payment thought process was loosely based off that as a starting point
There is only one answer here…keep the Chevy until the wheels falls off…and refinance if possible.
Spend the time and learn how to use the lease calc here or put your own spreadsheets together…otherwise the world of hurt you are in (neg egg) will only get worse.
Those rules are garbage. Forget you ever heard any of them.
Same offer to multiple dealers.
Anything other than a yes or nearest counter offer: move on and keep moving.
Need to be able to use calc or spreadsheet, etc. to put together offer first…and alter based negotiations, finance options, etc.
I saw some $400 ish One pay ZDX’s leases in signed deals. That appears to be your target. Without a one pay, throwing in $150 mo in neg equity and without top tier credit (no idea your credit) I would assume you would realistically be closer to $600 a month than $400. I would drive your car until the wheels falls off rather than trying to get into a 70k EV and bury neg equity.
Did you look up insurance rates on a new 70k EV? Also budget the potential for a new set of tires on a lease. 24 months and 20k months could be ok but those heavy EV SUVs just eat tires.
That’s way too much for an A-spec IMO.
Anyway one-pay is moot for someone with no mention of paying off their NE in cash, let alone one-pay plus the NE.
Forget about the 1% rule, which mainly evaluates a deal against MSRP – something that has become an increasingly fictitious number (i.e. they’re wildly bloated). Each vehicle presents real world value to varying degrees against it’s MSRP. e.g. a hyundai or KIA for example, has an MSRP closer to its retail value versus something like an EQS.
You’ve been given a lot of information at this point, please try to absorb it and take the advice that many have given. If nothing else, it would be great if you took the time to understand how to use the calculator based on how I (and others) have suggested, in order to build your target deal.
As with any x% of msrp, it never has been and never will be a useful rule
OP, your 2 recent threads are heavily related, and the context provided in the first may help with the second, so I have merged them.
Take a look at the Prologue too, tons of cash on those too. Ioniq 5 is good too, better residual but less cash
Why don’t you just pay $400 a month for the next 24 months on the Impala and pay it off. Then sell it outright, easy to sell a cheap car, then look for something new.
EVs come with a whole other set of issues like charging and possible higher insurance, so check on that too before you jump.
It’s only negative equity if you sell or trade now, it will be gone soon, just keep paying on ot
Holding on to an Impala with the 3.6 engine could become really costly, you definitely want to ditch it before the timing chain issues come up and mechanically total it
Engine is strong, is a concern though. Transmission scares me more. Not currently slipping or shifting hard but I know once I hit that magic 100k something is bound to go wrong
Ditching it for an EV lease seems like a smart plan to me, just keep shopping for whatever deal comes out best, somebody out there needs a deal at the end of the month to hit a number, you just gotta find them. If it isn’t this month, try the end of next month
Alright, so I’ve pivoted toward the equinox ev at a different dealer after much advice. I have not disclosed my trade as of yet to avoid being target. Here is my best attempt at a calculator vs what they’ve proposed. I believe the residual is too low for the full 7500 to be fully incorporated. And the MF is marked to high should be at .00120 from what I’ve researched tier b/2 the 4500 rebate is a state incentive . Should the payment be remotely close to what my calc says if they fully applied the 7500 no neg egg rolled in?
