Deal Check - 2025 Ford Mach-E Premium

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Hi Hackrs,

New to the site and new to leasing in general. Looking for a 2025 Mach-E Premium with a 24 month/10k/$0 cash down lease. Got the below from a dealer in OR (I’m about an hour away in WA, so tax is accounted for). Curious your thoughts.

Payment Detail
Retail Price $45,185.00
MSRP $52,180.00
Dealer Discount $994.00
Selling Price $51,186.00
Rebates $6,500.00
Total Savings $7,494.00
Residual Value (55%) $28,699.00
Diamond Ceramic $499.00
Out Of Pocket Cash $0.00
Taxes (9%) $585.00
Monthly Use Tax (9%) $72.14
Fees $1,254.75
Amount Financed $47,898.45

Lease
$873.70 per month
24 Mo, 10,500 mi | 0.05% APR |
$28,699.00(55%) RES

Obviously, the Diamond Ceramic is BS, I would ask them to remove that, and fees seem way too high without knowing what they are. But even without that, the monthly seems too high, or am I wrong? Not sure what the best strategy is here, go after the fees and ceramic? Go after additional rebates to compensate? Or just target a lower monthly with the same lease terms and let them figure it out? I know that’s not recommended but I don’t want to go back and forth forever and I’m fine with them making a profit so long as I’m not getting ripped off.

Thanks in advance!

I’d target a different car, not enough incentives for a decent deal.

2 Likes

Horrible deal. Have you checked the marketplace ?

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If you’re asking for quotes and not making offers, expect to see generous 2% dealer discounts. :-1:t2::-1:t2:

Move to a strategy of making offers or see if you can find a broker/dealer here in the Marketplace.

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Curious what makes you say it’s horrible? I am new to this so not sure what i should be looking at other than obvious stuff. MF is buy rate, and the rebates and discount are $7500. I don’t need it to be the best deal ever and I’d rather save my time haggling every last penny to get a deal i can live with, but is there something that jumps out at you as a red flag? TIA

I mean

:triangular_flag::triangular_flag::triangular_flag:

3 Likes

I saw a broker on here offering a premium for around $300 per month. May not be an exact apples to apples comparison but should give you a ballpark idea on payment.

Sure, I guess I’m trying to understand how best to move forward. All the advice here and elsewhere is don’t negotiate the monthly, negotiate the selling price. Other than the fees and ceramic, if I go back with a more aggressive selling price aren’t they just going to move their markup elsewhere?

For a 24 month lease with $0 down? I believe you but that seems hard to believe. I’ve searched Marketplace for Mach-E but nothing in the last few months in my region

Then your first step is to verify you picked a hackable car.

Post the evidence you find from Signed Deals & Tips and Marketplace

No one here is paying even $300+ for a basic EV.

In leasing, the amount financed is called the adjusted capitalized cost. I do see a problem with the 47898.45. How did you get it? It seems that there is a mystery fee missing. There is little transparency even when requesting a dealer worksheet. But I usually get them anyway as there is some useful info. You’re not very clear as to how the amount financed was determined. Let’s take a look…

Sell price … 51186.00
Diamond… 499.00
Tax… 585.00 … 9% x 6500.00
Fees… 1254.75
Mystery Fee… 873.70 ??? Needs to be itemized.
Gross Cap… 54398.45
Rebate- CCR… 6500.00
Adj. Cap… 47898.45

I did confirm all the calculations manually. Although, I got 47898.54 for the adj. cap… .09 difference… maybe you transposed the numbers? No big deal.

Don’t ever ask the dealer to do anything. If you do, you’re allowing them to control the deal.

Research selling prices in your market coupled with reasonable expectations. Sometimes, dealers embed rebates in their discount. Keep them separate. Get a list of customer rebates, incentives, and credits (e.g., electric chargers) including VIN-specific discounts, if any.

Secure a copy of the factory window sticker. Check for non-factory add-ons or dealer-installed options. If possible, eliminate those you don’t want or need.

Organize all researched and vetted data with the goal of creating a one-page professional-looking lease proposal that reflects your target deal. The idea is to create your own deal, not replicate or reverse engineer the dealer’s deal.

Rebates can be treated in one of two ways: (1) Use the entire rebate as a CCR. (2) Allocate a portion of the rebate to cover lease inception fees with any remaining balance used as a capitalized cost reduction (CCR).

No need to pay large out of pocket cash upfront especially when given large rebates. If cash is used as a cap reduction, you could lose most or all of it in the event the vehicle is stolen or totaled. Remember, a car is a depreciating asset and an expense, not an investment. Use the cash to invest in goods and services or other more meaningful and productive investments.

It’s nonproductive to waste hours sitting in a dealership negotiating especially if you’re not thoroughly prepared. You’ll get dizzy watching some salesperson running back and forth to their SM as they are not empowered to make decisions. This can be a huge distraction. You need time to think, prepare, and formulate questions within the privacy of your own home. This leads me to suggest…

Once you’ve performed all calculations having gathered, vetted, and organized all data, craft a lease proposal and email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they often lack knowledge and are tethered to their SM. Be sure to contact the SM first to let them know you’re emailing them a one-page lease proposal because you want to close the deal today or, at the very latest, tomorrow. Send the proposal as soon as you hang up. It must be comprehensive, authoritative, professional-looking, and flawless otherwise, you’ll lose credibility. Below is an example of a lease proposal…

Negotiate via phone/email. I prefer the phone. Be nice but firm. Explain to them that it is your practice not to deal with multiple dealers simultaneously and that you refuse to play games like “can you match or beat this”. Above all, say what you mean and mean what you say. Remember that local dealers know each other. Speak in a commanding and business-like voice that exudes confidence and knowledge. Unless they’re very stupid, once they see your fabulous proposal it will speak volumes. They’ll immediately know it’s time to put away their toys and board games and get down to business absent all the BS.

Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as excess wear/tear criteria. If all the terms are mutually agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign in an hour or two. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.

If the dealer isn’t transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!

Leasing is time-consuming and requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time or interest to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on the LH website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, be sure to always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.

3 Likes

FMC uses an interest rate, not an MF.

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The target is pre-incentive selling price (% off).

$874 for $52k car- that’s not a deal I would ever consider making.

If you are asking dealers what they want you to pay- you are wasting your most valuable commodity that you can’t buy- your time.

Consider either re-read leasing 101 and taking the LH collective strategies for making a well-reserached, time-sensitive, actionable offer proposal or hire broker. You will save both time and $- if you are even considering entertaining this deal.

For $874/month, you could have a much nicer ride. For just a little more- there was a broker deal yesterday- $0 DAS, $995 (all in 7% sales tax) on ~$130k Audi s eTron GT.

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Just to close the loop on this one. I picked the car up, the original quote was way off as they had miscalculated the residual at 55% instead of 61%. I got them up to 8,250 on rebates and signed for a 24month/10.5k miles/$0 down for $620 a month. I’m happy with that, could it have been cheaper? sure, but I love the car and I felt like i haggled as much as I wanted to and it fits my budget.

Posted to Signed. Thanks for the advice.

Glad to see we made an impact. Nevertheless, hope you enjoy the car!

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Did you even look at the 36-month term? That seems to be where the best prices are right now. Over $100 a month cheaper than the 24-month leases.

No, i wasn’t interested in a 36 month term.

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