I’m about $10 off on the LH calc. I’m assuming that’s b/c the calc doesn’t factor in the first month payment? (Am I correct?)
They didn’t share the actual selling price or the MF, and the residual value is off by a small amount. Was hoping to reverse engineer the calc to figure those things out so when I go back to the dealer I’m in an informed position.
Based on what I’ve seen, I think this is a good deal. But just want to make sure that I’m getting what I asked for.
This would be my third lease purchased with the help of the LH community. Couldn’t’ve done it without you all!
Not too long ago i was offered a 2024 honda touring for just a little less than what they are showing you for a C300, i know its two totally different cars but just amusing that some hondas now are being priced as high as Mercedes!
Ok, I received more information from the dealer, which makes this all the more confusing to me…
MSRP: $57,585 Selling Price: $52,500 (8.83%)
Loyalty: $2k
Fleet: $500 Final Selling Price: $50,000
Residual: 61%
Residual Value: $35,276
Max MSDs
MF: .00161
First Month DAS
Monthly: $662
With the exception of the pre-incentive discount (I asked for 11%), the numbers check out. But when I plug these numbers into the LH Calc I’m getting a much higher monthly (by $30). What am I missing/doing wrong?
I have another deal in place for a slightly cheaper car ($800), and at a 10% pre-incentive discount, otherwise same terms, and it is only $5 cheaper per month.
Further complicating this, the deal is based on May and could change in June (when the vehicle gets delivered). Am I not able to lock in this pricing? Any suggestions on how to further negotiate this down?
They both have the same pre/post MSD buyrate (.00201 / 0.00161). Car is ~$800 cheaper, but higher doc/gov fees.
I’m still baffled by the $30 difference between the LH numbers ($694/mo) and the dealers numbers ($662/mo). Any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong?
$0 DAS means sign and drive, not first month due at signing.
$2500 incentives seems like its untaxed.
I got the calculator to match exactly if the above three are adjusted. The main issue was first month due at signing vs $0 due at signing (which is what your calc had).
If you want a car now you can present the deal to another dealer with a car you want in inventory and try to get them to match. Im not sure how you can use the fact that programs will change as a negotiation point
Unfortunately, as I tried to continue to negotiate the deal further, the dealer responded with a generic “We are sorry that we were unable to help you with your most recent automobile purchase” form letter… So feel like that door has been shut. Bummer, as I really liked the build and it was pretty unique. So now I’m in a bit of a scramble mode to find something else. Fun times.
Anyways, thanks for all the love and support!
, but I’m not interested in the E at this time.