Deal Check: 2024 Cadillac Lyriq Luxury 2 AWD $73,700 MSRP demo - $491/mo 24/10k $1500 DAS [Michigan]

2024 Cadillac Lyriq Luxury 2 AWD in red with white interior,
Vehicle is a Demo unit with a little over 3000 miles.
$73,710 MSRP
$3,710 Dealer discount
$2500 off for demo
$3000 conquest
$1000 Costco
$500 GM Educator

$1500 Due at Signing
24/12k was $525/mo (they suggested this because I wanted 24/10k but car already had 3,000 miles)
24/10k at $491/mo

Trying to see if there’s more to squeeze or if I should count my blessings and sign.

On the negative part, my wife hates the red paint, and says it makes the chrome look way worse, super gaudy and not appealing. She vowed to never drive it if I lease it; she’ll just use our EV9 or Telluride…She seems and my son seem way more excited about an EV6!

Any advice, suggestions, or links to more competitive deals would be greatly appreciated.

Anecodotally, this is a pretty good deal from a MI dealer where the deal does not include GM employee. Whether it’s a good deal on this specific trim, I’ll leave for people with more knowledge

They told me Conquest and GM employee discounts do not stack, and that conquest is $3000 and GM Employee $2500 so they went with the better one. I also qualified for the GM Educator $500 discount, and that one does stack with conquest and Costco, thankfully.

Now, I don’t know if it’s true that GM Employee discount does not stack.

My biggest concern is the vehicle has 3000+ miles and all the discount they provided is $2500 which is their standard loaner discount. But they did have a $3710 dealer discount off the MSRP from $73710 to 70,000. I guess that really was the only discount they themselves provided. Everything else is manufacturer lease specials/cash specials.

Can I squeeze anything more from the dealer? or just be happy and run to sign?

The mileage starts when you get the car, so if you were to do 24/10k, it’s 23k miles at the end of the lease.

Looking at your #s, they give you 5% discount, I would try if they would do 6-7%. I have gotten 8% on a sport 3 trim if that helps

did you check another $500 off with the application of GM rewards credit card at dealership?

Yeah they were telling me that the lease end would show total miles on the car so if the car had 3000 id only be able to drive 16,000-17000 miles before hitting the cap. Maybe they were trying to push for the higher cost of the 24/12k vs 24/10k?

I did confirm with another dealer that had a demo who asked me if I was ok with 8k miles a year because the 10k/yr would net 16k because the car had 4K miles on it.

They also told me the 36/10k was same price as 24/10k (the only difference for me would be in the negative equity dividing it between 36 payments vs 24)

I didn’t check for GM card.

When trying to negotiate with them, they told me that was the best offer. This was the GM from the store calling me, and told me he had talked to the owner to squeeze as much as possible.

All in all for me it wasn’t worth it. If they had gone down around $2k-2.5k, either adding more to trade allowance or reducing the price, it was a done deal.

Their car had more miles than the car I was trading in. So for them to just give me the $3710 discount (to even the msrp to 70,000) didn’t seem enough, to me.

Still the best deal I could find around, but it felt like I was trying to force something that wasn’t going to really work for me.

I think that’s a great deal especially for a Cadillac Lyric. I’m being quoted today for an Equinox EV RS with a $57K sticker at $453/mo with $1300 due at signing, 24 months and 10K miles per year. I’m in Michigan as well (Canton and Dearborn areas) and I’d probably take a Lyric over an Equinox any day if I can get a deal similar to this. Geez now I’m second guessing what I’m about to sign and might call around to Cadillac dealers.

I have an agent looking in Dearborn but she hasn’t been very responsive. 2 weeks in, I still have no trade in nor any lease numbers.

I’m pretty much looking at all EVs that at least have AWD, and trying to find the lowest total lease cost, and highest trade-in value.

Graff Cadillac offered $635/mo 1300 DAS 24/10k

Shaheen Cadillac said they offered zero discounts.

Many dealers had a really bad trade-in and didn’t bother giving me any numbers for lease even just for the vehicle (without trade-in).

I’ve checked as far south as Kalamazoo, as far north as Traverse City, All the way to Detroit east, and Lansing west.

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I am looking at a Sport 3 right now but being quoted close to $700+ with about $1500 down. You mind sharing what sort of deal you scored so I know what to aim for?

Haven’t gotten one yet. Was hoping for a bit less than the $491/mo + $1500 DAS for 3-4K miles lux2 AWD 24/10k. I think for sport 3 even one with miles was almost $700 with zero DAS.

At least 8% before rebates, best I got was $517/m with around $3k das. Or $573/m with $573 das

Sport 3 trim

The best and most effective way and it save you a lot of time, just offer your well research offer and tell them what you qualify for, it’s a either yes or no, or they will counter.
It’s way better than just asking for a quote.

Most of the time their offer sucks.

That’s terrible for a loaner.

that was their limit; they’d not lower one single cent more. Even with that many miles on the loaner and it affecting my mileage (plus tire wear, plus who knows what damages the vehicle may have had in that time since they did 2000 miles/month on it).

I’ve noticed dealers not really wanting to lower much.

Even on an EV6, I just noticed that the best deal the GM gave me was only $300 OFF! they had $1700 off and $1000 select VIN discount, and they totaled the full discount to $3000 and that was it…not sure if this was a loaner, though.

I was about to make a similar comment.

@jromankvcc it sounds like you’re just asking for prices and then trying to drag them down from the sky.

This is time consuming, frustrating and generally not fruitful.

And it looks like you’re continuing this approach here:

I’m shopping around trying to find the best deal, and asking here to understand if the deal that the dealership provides is an actual good deal, mediocre, or plain right bad. I’ve had some dealers offer me $1000, and others offer me for the exact same MSRP one for $700, without even trying to negotiate the price. I’m not great with getting deals on leases so I’m asking for advice and suggestions. If the price is great, then that’s fine. But there were some points of concern.

On the EV6, the difference between the EV6 and the Lyriq is only about $1300 over 24 months, for a car that has an MSRP of $14k+ less. This is a company that owns many different dealers for almost all makes, so I’ve asked them to look into multiple vehicles.

I’m not sure if the EV6 is a loaner; if so, I don’t think the discount is that great.

I’m honestly looking for a deal that makes me feel “damn that’s a nice deal! can’t let this one pass up!”. Thus far I don’t feel I’m there yet.

Yes, I’m checking multiple EVs, pretty much all AWD EVs that have a low total lease cost on 24 months.
Trying to find the lowest lease cost on 24 months EV with AWD in Michigan, with the higher MSRP/residual.

That’s why I brought up the EV6 as a different post.

If that was incorrect, I apologize. I’m a bit fresh when it comes to lease deals and first time asking the experts for advice.

Wasn’t trying to be critical, just trying to get you to change up the approach so you’re better positioned for success.

The effort you’re putting into contacting dealers and asking for prices would be better utilized if you were figuring out what a good deal is first… in other words, decide upfront what you’re willing to pay and then make offers.

This is one of the most discussed vehicles on LH, and there are lots and lots of data points. There are only so many levers to pull. The main one is dealer discount.

I’ve only done three leases, so I’m not nearly as seasoned as many of the regulars here either. But I absolutely never start by asking the dealer for a quote.

It’s generally a fruitless approach. It also initiates a discussion that’s adversarial by nature.

You can avoid all this headache and time wasting if you make an immediately actionable, take-it-or-leave-it offer.

I got our latest vehicle with the first dealer I contacted. Started with an inquiry on the dealer web site (contained my offer), and about five emails back and forth and we were done.

This is great advice. Thank you.

I’m going to try this approach and see where I can get. I’ve been researching the forums trying to find what a good deal is so that I can use that toward finding a good deal myself.

Appreciate your response and clarification.

Have a great one!