Deal check 2024 Audi Q8 Etron

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Took my current car to trade for 2024 Audi Q8 etron.
The msrp of the Audi $82400, with 4% discount, plus Costco and fed ev $7500, dealer refused to give more discount, I have seen 10% on LH on similar cars.
I know they didn’t give good trade in value for my car, however when I offered 5k down without trade in the dealer stated it will be low 900 monthly.

Any advice what I can do to get a better deal?
I am thinking selling my car on private, then try to get lease new car.

This is very bad, plus you have two add-ons so the discount is more like 2.5%.

I have a few of these in stock I can discount 9% off MSRP…

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Is this correct, you owe $21k on a 2014 Lexus GX with 100k+ miles?

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Yes, it is correct.

Will your dealer work with MD resident? I saw on your posts not to contact you unless resident of NY, NJ

This is what they offer to everyone that just walks into the dealer looking to lease a Q8. At this point, you need to shop other dealers (by email) or go with a broker.

I have never said that, yes they will.

10% off msrp with no add-ons and buy rate is the most i would pay for a Q8 etron.

I don’t think anyone else is to address the 1,000 lb elephant in the room. But the question of your finances certainly has to raise an eyebrow, to say the least.

You have an almost 10 yr old car with 100k miles with negative equity. Hasn’t been paid off. Hasn’t even been paid down enough to generate some positive equity. Not even break even.

So it seems like you’ve made some terrible decisions in the past such as overpaying and/or been continuing to roll in negative equity. So don’t compound past mistakes with new ones.

Based on the information available here you’re not a good candidate to jump on the hamster wheel of leases and perpetual monthly payments. And to top it off the tax situation in MD is financially destructive for leases.

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Who knows, maybe OP just doesn’t care about negative equity. I’ve got about $8k negative equity on my current loan but dgaf because my loan is 1.9% and $8k is not a problem for me if I want to change cars.

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Did you overpay so badly or roll in some much negative equity that you still owe $21k on a 10yr old car with 100k+ miles?

If not then your situation is not the same.

I agree that is a big red flag…but people that are in situations like that don’t really see red flags :wink:

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You should be looking at Q4 e-tron and not Q8, if anything.

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To be fair though, there are a lot of people that overpaid for their used cars in the last couple of years during the supply chain shortage, and they probably financed it with a used car loan. We’ve seen much worse on here. And that GX will hold it’s value better than most cars.

I’m just saying, the thread wasn’t about OP’s financial situation unless I missed something.

I hear ya…but sorta unusual to go from a heavily mortgaged 10 year old car to a car with a 4 figure payment…

Sometimes people need to be talked out of things! :slight_smile:

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While I appreciate the perspective offered on the financial aspects of my past decision, I’d like to clarify a few things:

  1. The car was purchased used, with low mileage, and it came with clean records and a good maintenance history.
  2. Yes, the rate might be higher at 5.9%, but given the car’s reliability and ability to hold value, I believe it was a rational choice.
  3. My commuting requirements changed because of a work relocation, which has made the prospect of owning a gas-guzzling V8 less economical. This is one reason I’m considering transitioning to an electric vehicle.
  4. I’m looking for advice on securing a good deal for my next car, not necessarily a review of past decisions.
  5. I’m confident in my ability to navigate leases, and have past experience leasing cars. Given the current economy and rates, I had to pull this car.
    I understand your concerns and I appreciate the feedback. But as mentioned, I’m focused on the best approach for the future. Any advice on getting a good deal on an EV would be much appreciated.
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Dealerships in my area were willing to do base mf and 10% off with barely any effort on my part.

I looked into it, but the range is not long.