Hello all! I am currently preparing to settle on a deal but I don’t quite feel good with the numbers based on research I have done. I wanted to run this deal by the forum and see if it seems good to anyone who may have done a similar deal.
What’s on the table:
2023 Audi A5 45 S-Line Premium Plus TFSI Quattro Sportback MSRP: $56,435 Negotiated selling price (Cap Cost): $54,724 Balance forward: $56,400 (approx.)
Edmunds info:
RV: 53% MF: 0.00119 Term: 15K/36 Rebates: $1,500
Car will be registered in Florida so I believe the tax rate is 6.5% instead of the 9.68% in Missouri. I did some research through edmunds.com to determine RV, MF, and incentives for July and they got back to me with the above numbers.
The negotiated selling price was after offering $52,407 – suggested by Edmunds as a fair selling price based on deals for the same vehicle in my area (MO) up to June 26th. The dealer balked at that and showed that their cost was $2k less than MSRP and that is the deal margin. I put the negotiated selling price back into Edmunds and it’s still saying that is a high selling price.
Can anyone give me some direction on the quality of this deal? Thanks. I am to complete the deal at some point this coming week but want to make sure the numbers are actually a good deal.
That’s the other thing, I keep putting the numbers into different lease calculators and getting varying monthly payments.
Edmunds calculator with $2,250 in rebates (dealers) + $499 doc fee credit (I don’t pay administrative fees) at selling price of $54,724, registered in 32119, at 2.8% APR (no money down) brings a payment of $795, Leashackr’s calculator brings $784, Calculator.net shows $823, but you are getting nearly $900. I’m not understanding where the differences are.
If you say it’s a bad deal, I’ll trust you though. I don’t like car deals in the first place and don’t want to sign away 3 years on a bad deal.
I think Florida tax is 7% on monthly payment. You can adjust the dealer doc fee and government fees. Looks like you’re getting about 3% discount. You can get better.
I was thinking 5%. Thoughts? or better? I’m having them eat the doc fee but I am not sure if they’re trying to shift it elsewhere. I am handling this with a fine tooth comb at the moment.
Looking at some of the listings on marketplace. I think 8% should be your target. Just go to their competitor. Every dealership has a competing dealership that they despise. And they would do everything to keep your business once they find out you’re cross shopping
Also, majority of sources say Volusia County Florida’s combined tax rate is 6.5%. Do you have a source that says otherwise? I would like to see if I’m seeing outdated information.
I do not have a source. It’s just what I’ve seen on the forum. I think it’s better to overestimate just to be safe. Either way, .5% is very negligible. That’s not something a dealer can skim you on anyway. It’s probably better to focus on the variables that you are able to negotiate.
You could find a broker in the Northeast, pay their fee and ship it, and still be way ahead of this deal.
If you don’t want to go that route I’d revisit all the numbers and come up with your own deal at 7-9% off MSRP, any incentives, and base MF. Find matches in your region and shoot straight with the dealers. Make sure you’d be willing to sign “your deal” today if they agree to it. A phone call to initiate things may be better before emailing your offer.
I’m going to reassert my original offer of edmunds suggestion ($52,455 — 7% approx) and leave them with an ultimatum of let’s deal or I migrate to nearest competitor — in more cordial dialogue, of course, but firm.
There’s approximately $2k in incentives this month for that model so paired with MF and RV for the term I want, numbers should be more in my court. I’m not confident in the deal being accepted and I’m okay with that. I’ll just sit on my current paid A3 and be just fine.
I think you should get a couple offers from other dealers before giving your current dealer an ultimatum. At this point, your ultimatum is of no threat to them. You want to collect some ammo before giving an ultimatum.
I’d be more aggressive on your offer then. I’d be shooting for 10%. Sounds like you haven’t gotten multiple quotes so how do you know what the ceiling is?
I get that but I’m relocating to another city in a couple of weeks and my company is moving 2 vehicles so I figured I’d jump into a lease right now and have my company ship it to the new location since I’m allocated two vehicles in shipping.
So, it’s no sweat off my back if I don’t get a deal done in Missouri, I’ll just start over with the new location if I don’t deal now.
I say that to say I’m not pressed to make a deal. If they want to sell a car, let’s make that deal, if they don’t, I’ll push on and deal with new dealerships in the new area.
I have also put a couple feelers at the two other Audi dealers in my area to see where their heads are at but I don’t expect much. They both don’t have much inventory so I wouldn’t be able to take advantage of their pipeline inventory since I’m leaving soon.
. Better options for that type of money