Deal Check! 2021 Mazda 3 2.5 Turbo Sedan (NJ)

I don’t think they are defensive at all. Its good to listen to these guys, @mllcb42 is like a level 100 warlock here and his advice is pretty solid.

The issue with doing it like this (even if you specify as with buy rate) is you’re leaving open a lot of ambiguity that does leave room for the dealer to manipulate things not in your favor.

I think there is an argument to be had for breaking an offer down in detail (I have personally had better luck doing that than just monthly/das), however, it requires you to fully break down the deal in detail and it requires you to be damn sure about where all the numbers come from. If you don’t have the confidence and familiarity with the numbers, going with just monthly/das is a far better strategy.

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I understand there is sometimes profit to be abs doing that (doubtful on a Volvo wagon) but that’s just too much paperwork for a few grand for me. It’s not a Tacoma.

Point is, best case scenario with them marking up the mf and giving a commensurate discount is you come out ahead. Worst case scenario is you come out with no benefit and no harm. There’s no down side to them marking the mf up with a commensurate discount. So if it makes it possible for them to hit your numbers, why care?

Negotiating a volvo lease a few months ago went with the pre incentive discount approach and didn’t mention payment. A dealer agreed but when we broke down final numbers over the phone, the payment didn’t match bc there were BS add-ons and refused to remove.

All dealerships are different, there’s no one size fits all approach to negotiating.

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Ambiguity reared its head

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When using the Leasehackr calculator to make an offer, do we just give the numbers straight or are we supposed to give the numbers with the taxes rolled in? I just sent an offer to a dealership but I didn’t have the taxes rolled in…I just gave the monthly amount, $0 down payment, and the due-at-signing amount I am ok with paying there.

You would be saying monthly and due at sale. Down payment is irrelevant. You would want the numbers to include everything (I will also generally include my tax rate).

There’s no reason to send them an offer with numbers left out. Ambiguity is your enemy.

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Got it, thanks. Waiting to hear back from dealer 1.

What did you offer?

With the taxes rolled in, $411/mo with $1,596 at signing for 36mo/10k.

I feel I’m not 100% understanding this calculator. The figures above are when you capitalize taxes (roll them in). I thought the $406/mo with $1,750 at signing included tax since the calculator shows a pre-tax monthly. :man_shrugging:t2: I was trying to get that final figure that includes everything so it’s clear and set. (Not like dealer offers that give a down and monthly but the figure is without taxes and registration and all).

Can you post the calculator you used for getting to that offer?

I adjusted my government fees based off what DMV told me (my city doesn’t actually show up so I chose the closest city. This will vary by a few bucks so it’s not a huge deal). I Googled and apparently most people roll the up-front taxes in with their financing. I asked my friend who has a lease and she has no idea what this is.

There’s a small amount of upfront taxes here in CA on some of the fees that are being rolled into the lease instead of paid up front when you choose to Capitalize them. Either way is fine. Makes very little difference. Technically by capitalizing them, you’re paying tax on those taxes, so your total lease cost is about $15 more.

Eh ok. I’m new to this kinda crap so it looks like that wasn’t a good move. Would be better to not roll it in it seems.

Ya, it’ll save you a couple dollars over the life of the lease to not pay it up front.

Honestly, the easiest thing to do here would probably be to just tell the dealer $400/mo with $2k das and let them structure it however.

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Wait, you meant to say it saves to just pay it upfront as opposed to taxing on it by rolling it into the monthly, yeah?

If you choose to pay the upfront taxes up front (i.e. not Capitalize them), it should save you about $15 over the life of the lease.

Yes, ok, this answers my question. Thanks.

So one potential dealership (Browning) is out since it came to light they have a $5k mark-up and are working off that near-$39k price. I am still waiting on one dealer whom I contacted this morning (Tustin) to get back to me.

I fished another dealer (Orange) out of my spam box and turns out the guy spoke with me last week but I never got a follow-up (probably lost in spam). I gave my $406/mo offer (which is supposed to be w/ tax) but he is able to do $430/mo (with tax) and my drive-off will more or less be the same. Again, I know the Leasehackr calculator is just for reference…but I’m curious how they got $430 if all my numbers like RV and MF and tax are correct. Orange is working with $33,790 and the $930 customer lease support incentive too (which would be a selling price of $32,860). I told him I’d see what another dealership has to say and maybe get back to him.