Deal Check! 2021 Mazda 3 2.5 Turbo Sedan (NJ)

I was asking more of the if (which you answered). I guess the how just comes down to what you eventually want to pay per month and if you want to put anything down or not, have GAP included or not. Regardless nothing is working out right now because no one will drop on their price. One dealer gave me a $30k number that looked good until I realized they literally just took every existing incentive and subtracted it from the selling price – no one qualifies for all of the incentives, so it was just a stupid move. I only qualify for the $930 that everyone currently gets.

Your best bet is to work out a target price based on the programs as they apply to your situation and a well researched pre-incentive discount target from comparable deals in the shared deals and marketplace here and then work towards finding a dealer to do that deal.

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Right. Thanks. There doesn’t seem to be anyone having any deals (again, broken horn here), aside from Evolve. And I searched the site and found nothing more for Mazda as of this month. So the time just isn’t right and I’m afraid it won’t be for the rest of this year due to that effin chip shortage. No one is tryin to really move units but rather, try making the most they can without droppin anything. I will just have to try later in the year.

Your intentions are good but your advice is bad. For the sake of @boafriend and others, someone has to say it. The blind cannot be leading the blind.

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There are several broker listings in the marketplace to extract pre-incentive discount targets from.

I’ve been in the threads and haven’t seen anything for a Mazda 3. I have reached out to the AutoLeaseNinjas but only received confirmation of a message receival and not any actual response.

Found this linked from their marketplace thread

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Thank you, I have played with that tool before. I’m basically getting the same numbers all around from the Leasehackr calculator and that AutoLeaseNinjas configurator. I’ll just have to wait for them to respond to me to see if they were able to get any kind of deal.

Unbelievable how much a Mazda 3 is, never would I have thought a Mazda 3 leasing out for $400++++ a month.

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And a blanket statement is even worse lol Considering I just joined to start this thread, it should be pretty obvious that I’m not trying to lead anyone, and that I’m simply sharing my experience with @boafriend who is looking at a very similar car (considering others have thought my deal was good, I see no harm in sharing my experience).

I don’t think I could have said it enough that I’m also new to leasing, and even said others can chime in. But instead you leave this? Considering you have a “Trusted Hackr” badge, I would expect you had actual value to share besides a comment which goes no where.

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I totally understood you are in the same boat as me and just got a deal out of luck, per our exchanges. I think people are just chiming in wherever they see a place they can give advice. You’re good. I’m open to anyone.

And yes, @Traderx, I agree. Everyone is giving me crazy eyes when I tell them the MSRP and what payments would be. I would go German for a lease but there is nothing I like right now. I’ve been trying to get in the $300 range but it’s not possible without a down payment., esp since I want the top-tier trim.

Yeah, I’m just looking stupid out here. I just mentioned to someone about aiming for high-$300s monthly with zero down because of a deal I read about on here and the sales guy shot back, “So you’re trying to get in the high-300s because someone online from the East Coast got a deal and you wanna try getting that deal here in California?” Well, shit I don’t know.

Negotiating the selling price isn’t going to work because no one will go down. No one cares about the TrueCar/Edmunds market price so that card goes out the table. I just got an offer for $423.82/mo (with $2k down) and $485/mo with $0 down. It looks like there’s no way to get a lower number with $0 down.

I agree that trying to determine your target price and offering that is a better idea.

But don’t take what the salesperson said personally. I would respond, “Yes, I am. And if you give me that, I’ll be in tonight to sign.”

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Oh yeah, not taken personally at all. I know it sounds ridiculous but I told him “Well someone was able to get this deal, although on a lower trim. So I wanted to see if it was possible.” He just told me to look over what he sent and hung up.

Target price doesn’t work because I’m trying to use the $31,400 TrueCar estimate and none of the dealers will work with that. So that moves the game to monthly, which really comes down to downpayment and what monthly amount you are looking at. I am trying to get as close to below $400 as possible. I wanted $0 down because it’s most highly advised from most things I have read from here to Reddit, but that just increases my monthly. In this guy’s case, $485/mo would be the price with $0 down, and it is just way too much to me. $423/mo is ok but again – can we do better? He pretty much is telling me the same story every other dealer is – chip shortage is real, so dealers aren’t budging too much on price due to such low inventory on lots.

Stop telling them what price range you’re aiming for or asking them for quotes.

“My offer for stock number 123456 is $400/mo with $0 drive offs. If you accept, I’ll be there in an hour to take delivery.”

If they say no, move on. Just make sure you have a reasonable target price for that specific stock number.

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Right. Thanks. Again, I don’t know how reasonable my target price is. Like said, when working off selling price, no one is giving my $31,400 the time of day. So it seems my only step is to take your direct “this is my offer” approach.

This guy told me with $0 down, I could technically have zero drive off too since that $930 customer loyalty thing can just cover the drive-off amount. But this is with a $485 monthly payment though. I want to clarify this drive-off he is speaking of means a REAL zero drive-off, right? Meaning first month’s payment and dealer fee and registration all covered, right?

Also, has anyone been able to get a no-penalty fee for their lease in case they have to return the lease prematurely at some point? My mom told me this is usually something you can push for.

There’s your car.
2021 Mazda MAZDA3 2.5 Turbo Sedan AWD - $28,795 - CarGurus

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Yep that good old salesman garbage talk, typical Spewing pathetic salesman that just lie lie and talk nonsense in any direction they can. I had a couple of them this past week just talking lies and thinking they knew what they were talking about especially the guy who didn’t believe my buyout price on my car to a third party, he didn’t believe the figures and the equity I had in the car. Actually no salesman has believed me, the salesman told me that it’s just a number, that when you bring the car in they will give you thousands less. I then showed him the email and actual figure that they will be paying when I bring the car in, I said you want to take a drive over with me and we can turn the car in together so I can prove you wrong. He then said in order to sell my lease to a third party I had to buy the car out first. I said let’s stop right there, I said let’s call them now and prove your wrong again. Guy was a complete fool.

I would rather play the back and forth game, that’s just me. Throwing out a number you want right away to me might get no where with any dealer, then what?
I mean they may counteroffer but I’m noticing with a huge shortage of cars on the lots and many dumb consumers they don’t need to play either the back and forth game or the here’s what I want to pay game because dumb consumers are probably paying them what they exactly want.

Yeah, different approaches. My experience with what I have done so far is lowering selling price isn’t going to work, probably due to shortage of inventory – no one wants to play. Everyone is willing to play with monthly of course, but it comes down to how much you want to put down. I’m not doing any of these negotiations in-person, so I’m not sure how big of an effect that has. I don’t want to be driving all over the OC and LA when I still have to work. I have nothing to really lose at this point so I’ll try the direct offer approach. Worst case I get a “no” and I try with another dealer. Or like I was thinking yesterday, so just hold off.