Deal Check! 2021 Mazda 3 2.5 Turbo Sedan (NJ)

I already reached out to them. They don’t have any of the trim I want anymore (at the dealer they have contact with) where I live, so I’m out on that option.

I’m honestly wrecked by all this. I have no experience, a thousand opinions on here (not that I’m ungrateful for the help), and have no experience or numbers from others to base off of. I’ve tried negotiating the selling price – didn’t work. And with trying to get $0 down and $0 drive-off, it looks like I’m not going to be able to get to a low-$400s number at all.

I normally don’t take this much interest, but I feel like you need to find what you will settle for (or there are not going to be any cars to imagine driving home). Which trim do you want, and what do they have?

I know the exact trim and color I want. It seems the whole point of negotiating is to get something on your terms (what we call a “good deal”) but nothing is working in my favor. At minimum, I want $0 down and a payment that isn’t above $450/mo. But it seems this isn’t possible without any kind of money down. Again, I was at this point earlier this week, and it just may come back to me having to bite the bullet and wait.

A dealer I spoke with yesterday told me deals won’t get any better toward the end of the year. No idea how true that is with the chip shortage, which is supposed to last through the end of this year.

That is what I keep saying: for the car you are stuck on, this is :100: true. The Japanese car companies have 0 capacity to make or source semiconductors right now. You are fixed on a Japanese car made in Japan.

You need to approach this like the ones on the ground are the last ones you will see this year - it’s entirely possible. That is not a sales tactic.

Right, that is true. And I understand it’s not a sales tactic. It just sucks to be in such a “take it, cuz this is all we’ve got” situation. CarGurus has shown me that even across the nation, this top trim I want has been sitting on lots for 160+ days. So units aren’t exactly moving, but then again, most people looking at Mazda probably aren’t looking at $30k+ builds. And I feel with this shortage, deals def won’t get better as time goes on, as people usually associate with programs/incentives on current-year models.

This market doesn’t care what we think or how we feel.

We built millions less cars last year, and rental fleets sold off. We don’t have enough components, and the supply problem is getting worse before it’s getting better, irrespective of how long the car has been sitting there.

And everyone who leased or bought in the last 3 years is selling their car for more than they paid, and getting into something else. Demand is up and going up.

If you don’t need to lease now, don’t. Wait a year and save a lot of money. But it’s not going to be “in a couple months”

If you have to lease now, you have two choices:

  • full boat on what you think you must have (worst financial choice)
  • compromise and get what you can from a broker (best financial choice)
  • nationwide search and find your hack

Last time I’ll say: you seem fixed on a very specific car that is absolutely in short supply that 100% gets worse before better: fish or cut bait asap, and if you fish make a deal asap, whatever you deal you can, and forget about what it costs any other time - you can’t do anything about it. Beyond that, you’re making yourself crazy.

I had a 2010 Mazda3 5dr Advanced with Tech Package and remote start: I get it. I would never pay these numbers for another one, but it was a fun lease.

Thank you for the perspective. I am just trying to offload my 2012 328i because I am sick of paying for crap breaking down; I have wanted to get rid of it for years. The auto shop I just went to last week to replace my A/C compressor pointed out other things I eventually will need to fix too. I had my car appraised last week too and I am getting a $1.5k more than what it appraised for last year. I just don’t know if it’s worth keeping for another year or if now really is the time. I think you commented earlier in the thread and recommended I keep it for now. :man_shrugging:t2:

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I keep asking you a very specific question for a very specific reason.

You’ve made an offer and had it dismissed, but you don’t have a good understanding of what offer you’ve actually made. Without knowing what you’re asking for, it’s very difficult to know if you’ve made an unreasonable offer or if the you just have a dealer that doesn’t want to play, etc.

By working out how to actually get to a target price, you can isolate the variables and see what yo work on.

So I’m going to ask again… what pre-incentive discount would you have to get to get to that $400/mo target price?

There’s only one answer to that question and it’s a specific number. It’s not a big range, it’s not what the dealers near you are willing to do, etc. It’s a specific number that makes the math work out.

Getting to that number is about learning the process that gets you to the context of the numbers. Even if you don’t move forward right now, it gives you the tools tov.ake an informed offer.

I appreciate you helping but it’s clear I’m not giving you the right answer. You keep phrasing the question over and over when it’s obvious by 3 posts or so now that I have no idea how to calculate what that discount is supposed to be. I’ve mentioned $31,400 earlier as being a price I was wanting to pay, I’ve mentioned a percentage based off the Leasehackr calculator,…I don’t know what I haven’t put out yet that can’t answer your question. If it helps, just give me a layman’s formula to figure it out: ex. “You want to pay this, the car’s MSRP is this, blah blah…your pre-incentive discount then would be this.” (If that’s even possible).

I’m already not feeling anything will pull through so it seems I’m gonna have to either pay what dealers are putting out or bite the bullet and stick with my car until next year or maybe even longer.

You would fill out the calculator, using the step by step instructions given to apply the lease programs as they apply to you, and adjust the discount to give you the monthly payment you’re looking for.

You need to know what you’re asking for and what the deals at hand actually are.

This is exactly what he’s asking you to do. Discount needed aside from incentives.

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Yeah and that literally wasn’t explained at all earlier on. He just kept asking me the question point-blank over and over when it was clear I didn’t understand WTF he was asking, nor did I even know how to calculate it. It would’ve been easier to say “Use the Leasehackr Calculator (as I have been using), input all the info without the dealer incentive in, to find that amount. It will be the percentage listed below the MSRP and selling price.”

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Without the $930 inventive in, I would need a 6.5% discount to just hit low-$400s ($414/mo). With the $930 in, I’d get to below $400/mo ($386/mo). This is all with $0 down. Drive off is not set at $0 though.

This won’t work in this current climate though…no one is budging on anything.

We’re getting closer to an answer, but you’re still not quite there.

You should include the incentive in your calculator accounted for in the incentives section, but you want to know just the dealer discount.

You should set the drive off to $0 though ifnyou want to know what is needed for a $0 drive off.

Can you post your calculator?

This is my current calculator:

Appreciate the patience and time in dealing with me learning this crap.

CX-3 deals just got even better

Yeah I have been hearing about these deals. Not my thing though. Thank you though!

And WTF they discontinued the 6…isn’t that a hot model for them? Weird.

So doesn’t look good for the future. If dealers won’t budge off 450 with 0 down and you want to be around 415 that’s only about 1400 more over the course of 3 years. Is this really a deal breaker for the car you absolutely want? Just pay 1000 in drive off using the bmw equity and your payment will be close to 400 if you want the car that bad.

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No offense, but you don’t really seem to get how supply and demand work in general. The 6 doesn’t sell. Mid-sized sedans that aren’t called “Accord” or “Camry” don’t sell. Of course, Mazda is going to discontinue a car that no one buys.

IMHO, get rid of the 3-series and just get a Mazda 3 at full MSRP, if you really won’t budge on trim or color. You keep saying that the dealers won’t budge. No offense, you’re not budging, either. Whatever you spend on that 3-series over the next year is likely doing to exceed whatever $ you would’ve saved on a mythical Mazda 3 deal that you cannot get at this time, and you just threw away $1.5K in equity, too.

Seriously: compromise, lease the exact car you want at a price you don’t like, or just continue to throw $ away on an old German car. It’s really that simple.


Let’s back up for a minute here… it looks like you never answered the folks on edmunds with the term and Trim you were looking for. You need to make sure you have accurate rv/mf/incentives to start with.

You seem to have a mishmash of values in your calculator.