Chevy Equinox EV Help with Lease Numbers

I went to a Chevy dealer tonight in New Jersey to see if I can work out a deal for a Chevy Equinox EV AWD.

MSRP: $46,595
Sales Price (including all incentives): $40,095

The dealer came back to me with a 36/10K lease of $385 with just first month due at signing.

I was calculating the actual lease price on paper in front of the dealer as follows:

MSRP: $46,595
Residual: 67% ($31,218.65)
Money Factor: .00096 (2.304%)
Bank Fee: $0
Sales Price: $40,095
Total Amount Financed: $40,095 - $31,218.65 = $8,876.35
Monthly: $8,876 / 36 = $246.56
Lease Price: $274.34 x 1.023 = $252.24

I asked him a few times to show me what I was missing since my number was way off his ask of $385 per month. He refused to answer me each time, but did print out his computer worksheet which I attached - Monthly of $327.16

Was I wrong in how I calculated the lease price or did he just not want to deal with me? I kept asking him what I’m missing and he didn’t seem to appreciate the question.

Thanks.

Payment = MF x (Net Cap + RV) + (Net Cap - RV)/Term
Plug in the numbers and you’ll discover that payment = 327.16

Lots missing. What is the sales tax rate? Itemize the 1079.57. I’m sure it includes the 489 doc fee and gov fees and doubt it includes taxes. So, where are the taxes? Your tax should be…

Tax rate x (327.16 x 36 + 5000 + the taxable portion of the 1079.57)

Don’t waste time trying to decipher a dealer’s worksheet or chasing after them. Otherwise, you’re allowing them to control the deal. They often omit a lot of relevant detail such as money factor, monthly base payment, monthly contractual payment, fees not itemized and even make mistakes. You need to rely on credible outside sources (e.g., LH marketplace and signed deals, Edmunds, etc.). Do your own research and establish a reasonable selling price in your market. Be sure to get a copy of the factory window sticker. Check for non-factory add-ons or dealer-installed options. And, if possible, eliminate those you don’t need or want. Get a list of all customer and dealer rebates/incentives including VIN#-specific discounts/incentives, if any. And, yes, the dealer has such a list.

The only thing useful about dealer lease worksheets is the input data. All data should be vetted such as dealer doc fee (regulated by some states- I thought the limit in NJ is 250), cost of money (e.g., money factor), gov fees, residual, rebates/incentives, sales tax rate, etc. Make sure the residual matches the term and annual mileage requirement. Check available tax credits/incentives via the fund provider who will cover taxes or, at minimum, assess a lower sales tax rate to energize sales for some models.

Organize all relevant data in tabular format with the goal of creating a lease proposal that reflects your target deal. The idea is to create your own target deal (proposal), not replicate the dealer’s deal.

It’s very foolish and nonproductive to waste hours sitting in a dealership negotiating. This can be a huge distraction. You need time to think things through and formulate questions within the privacy of your own home. This leads me to suggest…

Craft a lease proposal (example below) and email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they’re often order takers and lack knowledge. All numbers should be accurate otherwise, you’ll lose credibility. Negotiate via phone/email. Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as lease amortization methodology and excess wear/tear criteria. If all is as agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign right away. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.

If the dealer isn’t being transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!

Leasing is time-consuming a requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on this website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.

??? Let me know.

0% for NJ evs at the moment

Thanks. Will dig in to your details, but just wanted to quickly answer that there is no sales tax on EVs in New Jersey. This changes Oct 1.

Really appreciate the help.

Yeah, been told that a few times, including by you, and can never remember. OP says it changes on Oct 1.

Sure. No problem.

The doc fee is capitalized.

Total Amount Financed: $40517.01 - $31,218.65 = $9298.36
Base Monthly: $9298.36 / 36 = $258.29
Monthly Rent Charge : .00096 x ($40517.01+$31218.65) = $68.87
Lease Price: $258.29 + $68.87 = $327.16

That is definitely not how a lease is calculated, especially the rent charge. It’s not the monthly depreciation plus 2.3%

Use the LH calculator and read the 101 articles on the site including the one titled “how to calculate payments”

No, it’s not… look again.

Must say, thats the first time ive ever seen it literally say it is capitalized and have it just not be.

I always ignore the boxes and only pay attention to the gross and adj. caps and how they got there.

Where did this number come from?

I believe this software lists every line item and then the checkbox specifies whether it is paid upfront (checked) or is included in the GCC (not checked)

If that were the case, I’d expect to see the rest of the fees there.

I wouldn’t blame the dealer for not being interested in teaching you how to calculate a lease by hand. Most of them couldn’t calculate a lease by hand themselves, not that it’s particularly hard, they just rely on the software.

At the end of the day you can negotiate two things here: (1) the discount off MSRP (2.31%, check SIGNED! for recent comps, most are much higher discount) and (2) the MF markup (0.00096, buy rate is .00055). Everything else is just math.

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Agree, but man a lot of those dealers don’t even know how to run their own software…my spreadsheet is the bible they need to match when I’m in the finance office…and if you don’t then you are relying on them to do the math right…I’ve probably caught ‘errors’ on at least half of the leases I have had.

Also, a LOT of people get talked into stuff or want stuff in the finance office and that changes all the numbers…the cap ‘build’ along with controlling DAS are huge…so need to bring your sheets or calc there for on the fly calcs.

I agree that being able to run the numbers yourself is a useful skill to have and not very difficult after a few hours of study. But you have to be able to do it yourself and you have to know what you’re doing. The dealer is not going to teach you. We often see people getting wrapped around the axle in the minutia of lease calculations and fees they can’t negotiate and missing the bigger picture of what they can negotiate.

For sure but you also need to make sure what you negotiated has been used and applied correctly. And not altered when other things are added or subtracted from the deal.

I mean I know I’m never working hard to negotiate price and MF and just relying on and believing in dealer to tell me what payment is. I’m sure a lot do but they most likely don’t read or understand contract either.

Dealers love leases because of all the smoke and mirrors with places to move and hide things…regardless of your negotiations.

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