Planning on getting a 36.5K base Cadillac XT4, wondering if this is considered a good deal, appreciate any advice:
MSRP: 36.5K
Dealer fees/Taxes/Full downpayment including first month: ~3.2-3.4k
Term: 39 months
Miles: 10k a year
Monthly cost: 299$
I know I am probably not providing all the info here but let me know what I am missing and if I have it I can share the detail, for now I don’t know the MF.
The discount is that it’s a 1$ down deal and $299 monthly.
Ofcourse though I have to pay the $650 Dealer Fee, Taxes, and $150 doc fee upfront which adds up to like 3k-3.3k not sure about the exact cost just yet. I think taxes takes most of the hit for the 3k “downpayment” since I am in Texas and it’s 6.25% upfront.
I do not have the Residual Value and Money Factor
I am not sure if this answers your question, sorry new to all of this.
I don’t think TX does either atleast I don’t know about it. But yeah… just trying to figure out if this is a good deal, a meh deal, or if it’s just not worth it.
Well the Factory offer is around
$349 with $1000 for a 36months with 10k (Plus taxes)
So off the top of my head it looks good, but need better eyes on it.
This is not a discount. If you want to properly evaluate this deal, you need to determine what the discount is. That means finding out the selling price.
With confusion over that, not having mf/rv/etc prior to talking to the dealer, etc, I would HIGHLY recommend you take a step back from talking to dealers about numbers until you spend a good bit more time doing your research into what goes into a lease, what the programs are for this car, etc.
Let this be a guiding principal for you when considering a lease: if you ever find yourself with a dealer offer in hand asking “is this a good deal?”, you have jumped the gun and set yourself up for failure. Going to the dealer is for finding someone to do your deal, not for asking them how much they want you to pay. Doing the legwork up front will put you in a much better position to be successful.
So with that said, take a step back, read through the leasing101 section a few times, ignoring the 1% rule nonsense and find as many comparable deals (both past and broker listings) to reference for determining a solid target pre-incentive discount. You can then take that and plug it into the current lease programs as they apply to your situation to have a much stronger idea of what kind of numbers to be targeting.
Glad to hear. Unfortunately, many when faced with the same advice would take it as a personal attack rather than the helpful guidance it’s meant as. Going into a 5 figure financial commitment properly prepared makes all the difference.
The friendly guy on Edmunds said there is a 900$ incentive? But I am not sure how that works or how to ask the dealership about that. Would you be able to provide me any advice on that?
Looks like I got all the final numbers and plugged the final information into below, The car is 2020 Cadillac XT4 Sport, although since it’s a loaner it has 4.5k miles on it. Any thoughts?
With the money due up front, you’re looking at an effective 420/month payment on a 45k rig. While you’re still getting a 319/month payment, that 3900 you’re putting up front isn’t free money…it’s still coming from your pocket, so you’re paying for it one way or another. With minimal incentive money available, and a 19% off MSRP, this is probably the best you’re going to do on this. You need to decide whether it’s worth it to you or not.
That said, with the less than 1% money factor, I’d lump that 3900 up front money in to the deal, and pay the higher monthly. Invest the money you’d put up front instead.
Does the dealer have tax credits? Also, a demo with 4,000 miles on it means that you are only getting around 26,000 miles to use on this lease, unless you pay for more up front. Keep that in mind.
He’ll need to confirm that with the dealership. I’ve had this go both ways, where the miles are lost, and one where the miles started at whatever was currently on the odometer at time of signing. Depends on how the dealership operates. By rights, according to GMF, you are correct though, those miles are lost unless bought back.
EDIT: Looks like he took care of that in the comment above.