You could read this thread and see some examples.
3 Likes
Wait… I’ve got to get him off of the loan. So I don’t want to refinance this into just my name and then turn around and get something different…
so I need to find what I’m doing and him sign to trade this in on whatever I’m getting. Right? (He’ll be fine with whatever as long as his name isn’t on it)
The c300? That is the better car? 
The lease return have to change 4 tire for sure that is 1000 because it has run flat tires vs i sold the car as it. Maintanence is expensive 5 time oil change in 2 years at prenium price (maybe 200 each time — 1000) vs i changed oil and filter myself or paid 40 for oil change. Pumping premium gas average mpg at 25 vs honda accord regular gas mgp averagr 32… paying premium insurance. 
wow that make so much sense.
After all Total cost for the c300 is much higher than the honda accord and it doesnt have that much feature diffence than a loaded exl honda accord. (Some mb c300 still doesnt even have push start button)
If you are looking for a dependable 3 row SUV, the Toyota Highlander is probably the best choice. The Pilot is also a good choice, and I would be inclined to continue to drive it as long as possible. Even if something breaks out of warranty, if you find a good independent repair shop, it hopefully will not cost too much to fix.
1 Like
it is the best to ask the dealer or the bank that you work with. A 10 year loan on a car is never a good choice. Car is depreciate comodity, treat it as expense.
Set a budget monthly and make your decision base on it. Look at the overall onwership cost not just the monthly payment. For example, you can spend 600 a month for auto expense, then get the car with monthly payment only 300 because you still have to pay for insurance, gas etc. Given your driving situation, you need to look at the car value in 2,3 years, also the interest rate, leasing will use money factor instead. Cars that hold good value will help you down the road when it is time to change. Cars are depreciate different and luxury car depreciate more. SUV depreciate less than crossover but with high demand it will likely have less discount—- and the list just keep go on and on.
Money factor and interest rate are the same thing… If you are worried about interest in many cases you can get a much better rate on a lease versus financing. All depends on the programs offered and your credit.
1 Like
Thoughts on a qx60 lease?
Any other 3 row suvs that lease well?
Or purchase something like a sorento?
Where did i said those rate are different? I only said lease used mf and loan used apr. Often time when manufacture offered low mf they will also offered low apr.
And i am commenting on the op situation driving 25k miles a year. With all of other cost such as lease end return, exessive wear etc (total ownership cost)… the selection will be limited vs a person driving 12k a year.
I agree that leasing is a bad option in this case because of the mileage, but money factor and interest are the same thing. Just multiply the money factor by 2400, and thats the interest rate.
Not disagreeing that leasing may be a bad option. But some people do think it’s a good option still.
Just wondering why you think it’s bad in my case.
I think Nissan only leases a max 15k/yr miles. you’d have to prepay for your additional miles at the beginning for a discount on the per mile cost. That is going to negatively affect a good deal you could find.
If you’re hell bent on leasing, you could look into a BMW X5 loaner. Bmw allows you to purchase miles before your contract is up for $.16/mile provided you do it before you turn it in. That’s about the best you’re going to do from a mileage penalty standpoint.
The mileage allotment alone seems like a pretty tough obstacle to overcome from a leasing standpoint. Whatever lease payment you get you’ll have to budget another 200-250 a month over 36 months to pay your overages at the end of the term, assuming a 15k a year lease.
2 Likes
I’m definitely not set on anything at all.
Definitely want to make a good long term decision/plan…
I normally do not reply too often but felt compelled to write a response to this. You are in a terrible situation with your car and car payment. Unless you have tons of cash, you should not be spending $660 over 10 years to finance a car. And even if you did, why would you finance that much - it must be a high rate to get to that payment for 10 years. Honestly, I would buy a car no more than $10k to get out of this hole and save up for another lease or purchase.
To take the $10k hit and lease something when you know you will go over miles is just stupid unless you plan on buying it.
1 Like
Interest rate is 4%
Purchase price was 38k but w fees, tax, negative eq, I owe 43k on it now. Private party is realistically 34k.
And yes. It’s terrible. 
The math does not add up. To have a $660 payment for 10 years at 4%, you financed $65,000 for a Honda Pilot.
2 Likes
Includes negative equity and other stuff. But yeah, that is a lot.
Loan balance is 43k and we got it in may… I’m not sure then… maybe it’s not a 10 year loan? I’m kind of confused now…
1 Like
I would check because it is probably a 6 year loan, if you just got it. That would make more sense and not as terrible. If you did keep it 2-3 years you might break even since it is a Honda. It dropped so much in value because it is less than 1 year old.
Looks like 84 months.