BMW X7 2024 M60i Lease?

wdym by 28% discount ?

Ohh I actually always had the money, but I had no need until now that I have 2 kids and hard to fit them in the sonata alongwith my wife and parents :upside_down_face:

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Let me check

Been here since 2016, didn’t realize “hey that’s expensive but you do you on a low volume car” is bad advice.

FWIW too obviously plenty of brokers with “expensive” cars at/near 1% still so what I’d debunk is that the old 1% rule is dead and gone - that’s the bogus part (look at brokers for EQS, iX, Wranglers, etc.

ISn’t @AutoCompanion doing like 8% on these?

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He’s in California - we have excellent brokers.

Here’s a local broker with plenty of luxury cars at/near 1% - Merc: 👔 Mercedes-Benz August Specials - LUXCONCIERGE - #110 by LuxConcierge

BMW: ⚡ EV BLOWOUT BMW AUGUST Specials SoCal 2023 - i4 35e $499/mo + $3k DAS - i4 40e $579/mo - LUXCONCIERGE - #38 by LuxConcierge

Yeah but none of them are performance SUVs that seat 7. GLS63/580 are still expensive. Escalade V is basically GFY lol

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The EQS 580 is faster (and uglier) than any of those and def is available!

The EQS is also an electric car. If that’s your only car, it may not work for you.

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I do have the 4% discount already, asking the dealer for another 4% today

Which idiot is paying 1% on an EQS, IX or Wrangler?

Always know your actual target for realistically the best payment, not some arbitrary percentage.

Hey if you wanna die on the hill of the stupid 1% rule, you do you.

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That’s not going to meaningfully change the awful lease on this car.

What does “leasehacking” mean to you? What brought you to a site called leasehackrs?

Leasehacking means starting with a model and trim that has good bones, ie it has the RV, MF and incentives from the bank that make it worth the effort to negotiate the realistically best discount from the dealer. And then pull any additional levers that lower the payment or add value without requiring any additional discount from the dealer.

The X7 60i is literally the opposite of what leasehacking is.

We’re doing 8% in NorCal. A dealership that is at 4% won’t give you another $4,000+ off. Contact us if you’re interested.

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Yeah it’s pretty clear leasing an X7 M60 is just bad… the car is nice but the lease programs aren’t.

Is there a reason you’re looking at the M60 exclusively? I mean you said you were hauling kids and coming out of a Hyundai. I why aren’t you targeting a X7 xDrive40 or a Mercedes GLS450.

I know the NorCal Bay Area has a dearth of xDrive40’s (there are like zero of that X7 powertrain in stock in the SF Bay Area). But if you can put in a custom order (such as through AutoCompanion) you can save a ton.

You can probably get a non-black non-AMG-Line GLS450 allocation unit for MSRP right now… seems to be a way to get what you need without the full beans in a X7 M60.

A Volvo wagon would do the trick and it’s under the radar, nothing to draw the attention to all your money

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Do you mean I need to go for a cheaper car ?

I came to this forum to learn more about getting the best lease on any car I want whether its 10K or 100K, is that not the case ?

what you’re missing is that some cars don’t lease well, this being one of them.

you could not light money on fire by listening to the hackers giving you advice OR you can light money on fire because you want the car you want. the secret to having money is to keep it.

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Like I always said, BMW programs are mediocre at best right now, the .0021MF plus the 116k MSRP really hurts. I recommend you do the math, go on cargurus or cars.com, find a 3 year old X7 m50i with like 30k miles or so, see how much they are listing for. Undercut that by another 5k, that’s how much your car will worth. See if leasing is cheaper or buying is cheaper, there’s a function for that in the LH calculator too. Regardless, it’s better to find a broker on this site for a strong discount if/when your dealer fail to bump your discount to 8%. Hope this helps…

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sent a message

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So your issue with the 1% rule is that it’s an arbitrary percentage?

Clearly it’s a helpful “rule of thumb” for a lot of people (myself included) - totally understand that it isn’t for you.

IMO it’s still an easy way to comp relative value across leases/models. If there’s a better “rule of thumb” then I’d love to learn - appreciate it!