Can you still do this? I’m in san diego
How common is it for dealers to have loaners they are leasing? Do you ask them specifically for a loaner? I feel like you wouldn’t get this deal on a car with sub 100 miles.
You can find them usually under demo’s, or company cars section of dealer you’re shopping.
At first I thought the MSD killed it, but then realizing the $0 DAS makes this a great deal. I got so much pushback from my local dealer when I mentioned this and similar 3 series/4 series deals. Ironically it isn’t about finding the deal, it’s about getting a dealership to accept it. Apparently nobody likes manufacturer rebates.
You can’t go in with the “I want this car for $310/mo w/ $0 Down” approach and expect any dealer to bite on it. You need to walk them into the deal. You really only need to ask dealers what their best discount on the car is up front. If they ask how you wish to pay for it (all cash, finance or lease), just say you haven’t decided yet and are trying to find the best discount before deciding.
Once you find a few dealers with a good discount, then you start talking about lease terms. Whether they like it or not (why wouldn’t they? It doesn’t take a hit on their profits), they have to honor manufacturer rebates. The real grinding is just getting the base money factor and a good discount
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I don’t talk monthly payment, just steps.
MF
Sale price
Incentives
Term
MSD
Sign
Drive.
I suppose I should add that MF is the first step because the deal is useless to me if i’m paying a marked up MF (Ask me how i know this…). Get the sales team to agree to buy rate first and this will give you a lot of insight into how easy it will be to work the deal.
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Thanks for the advice, however I failed my first round of lease negotiations… $38,000 2019 Dodge Challenger GT AWD loaded, etc. They wouldn’t take the $350/36months/12,000m offer, we got close though. Thats with $0 DAS. TIP: Edmunds.com gives price over time as well as number of days on lot. Found the amount the dealer paid and offered him just above auction price… and he still didn’t take! This car had been on lot 290 days. They wanted $420 but then factoring insurance and crappy residual value and that was it. Trying for WRX, then a Mustang GT Convertible. Mustangs are poor leases I know.
Are you actually going into the dealers to negotiate? You’ll save yourself lots of time and headache by emailing the sales managers. Not to mention you can spread the field a lot better. Email every dealer within reasonable driving distance with the car you want and see whose giving the best deal. Also, DON’T PAYMENT SHOP! Use the calculator on this site and figure out what discount you need to hit ur payment. Hunt for the discount and base MF that will give you that!
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Yeah, payment shopping is generally a bad idea…
a) You don’t know what’s going into that payment
b) Your average salesperson has an idea of what the average payment is. You show up or contact suggesting something that’s 50-75% of this and you’ll stall out before you even got a chance to go into first gear.
I never bring up payment target until i’m 100% certain what’s going into it and i’ve already gotten the CA/SA/Tower Man used to the idea that my payment is already lower than 99% of the public (and to that end, sometimes lower than employee leases…) Even then, Sell price prior to incentives is a better number to bring up when you’re sure that’s what will get you to the payment you want.
My reasoning is that 1. I need to test drive anyways and can’t easily do that on 6-7 different vehicles. Who knew the impreza would perform as poorly as it does (worse than a corolla). 2. I always get them to give employee pricing on the vehicle first. I also like to put on a waffling performance and then say “honestly guys, this is my lowest price on 36m/10 or 12k miles”. Last night I was offered a $380/m lease on a loaded Sport Impreza. Took me an hour but I got them down to 315 and still walked. That’s with $1000 DAS. If you can do that without going into the dealer, I would be amazed.
Leasehackr math has this car: https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/744516114/overview/ at $373/m 36m/10k yr. ---- Initially, I got them to 6.2 years “score”, with $1000 DAS after 3.5% under plus 2% VIP rate via charity website. That’s with 61% residual.
My payment of $315 is like getting 11.8% off MSRP and score of 7.2 years. This is on a car brand that typically doesn’t do all kinds of crazy deals, shady rebates, etc.
I’m assuming this is a good deal for the brand. Will try it out your way of emailing sales manager though. Typically, I hardly get a reply back unless it is for a car/color combo I don’t want.
what is an “OL code”? I asked this in another thread and didn’t get a straight answer. Googling just points back to leasehackr
I can’t tell if your bragging or trying to say you’re getting terrible deals by going into the dealer, as neither that nor your $315/mo are impressive on this forum for a $29k car. I know Subaru’s don’t lease great, but how could you convince yourself that’s a good deal, while posting in a thread where a superior car was leased for the same payment?
Well hell gimmie a break lol I’ve never leased a car. That was only the second time I’ve gone in to discuss. Guess what though? Never signed. So I knew there was better. Plus LH scores on a Subaru are hard a.f. because they don’t typically get magical discounts combined with loaner markdowns. Today had offer on a TLX V6 Advance 1000 DAS @ $47000 MSRP for $38,070, MF 0.001354 with tax added thats $363 a month 36m/10k miles LH score 10.7 years. At that point, I’m doing pretty good for myself unless someone spots something better that’s not a ‘prostituted’ loaner car.
Another reason going into the dealership isn’t the best idea. That sounds like a great deal until you realize there’s $8950 lease cash being offered by Acura on that model, meaning you likely got almost no discount from the dealer. The MF is interesting, because Edmunds is showing a base MF of 0.00215.
If you’re gonna go through the headache of negotiationing in person at the dealer without emailing them first, at least know the numbers ahead of time. Not trying to be hostile or anything, just trying to help get you the best deal.
Amen to this. My last deal wound up with final negotiations in person ONLY because a trade was involved and of course also to soften the blow of selling me a new car for a loaner-like discount.
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I appreciate it- looking through Acura forums too and it seems like my offer is better than average but not great. The Acura deal was not in person but still feels like a waste if I hate the car when finally going in person. At least I learned the tactic of fake urgency can be used against the dealer as well as bluffing lease offers from rival dealers. Silver Acuras are harder to find, so I said I got an offer of $301 from another dealer but dont want to wait for factory delivery haha. Said I was on my way to make deposit. They bought it and offered the deal mentioned. In complete honesty, this is the first time I’m above 720 and have the means to get any lease, so its pretty much turned into a game. The real gem would be a silver mustang premium GT convertible @ under 300. Last time I emailed a Ford dealer, I was met with “for your protection as well as ours, we cant provide lease pricing”. I emailed her a pic of a condom lol.
Was it at least ribbed?
Glad the important questions are being asked haha
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Happy wife, happy life.
With great power comes great responsibility. Treat hacking opportunities with respect and honor your word if the other side does the same…
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