This is for 10K/36 months
MSRP: $50,325
Sale price: $47,500 (6% discount)
Money down: 0
Residual: 61%
MF: .00140
Document Fee: $200
License/Registration: $800
WA tax: 10.3%
$665/month including tax
It seems not great to me after I did some BMW 3 series searching on this forum, although those threads are several months old.
Can anyone provide numbers I should counter with?
Edit: There’s also a $925 acquisition fee according to the sales person.
Run away you should know about the 1% rule
That’s a horrendous deal. I wouldn’t even do business with a dealer if they offered something that bad
That’s a typical opening offer so I don’t think I’d blacklist the dealer. However you should make it clear that it’s not worth your time to even visit unless they will cut at least 10% off MSRP. That will help weed out the bad ones.
All, thanks for the tips, but I really need more data points for my response to this dealer. I really do want the vehicle and it seems all the BMW dealers in the area are owned by the same company, so not sure what luck I would have just talking to the next dealer. I’m in WA, and so maybe the next thing is to talk to a dealer in Oregon or CA.
@all:
What money factor and residual should I be expecting?
I’ll go back and ask them to cut at least 10% off MSRP. That being said, even for an “okay” deal, should I offer to put anything down and what is an acceptable monthly payment and what is a great monthly payment?
I’ve been reading about the 1% rule on this forum. So with the MSRP of $50,325, a good deal would be < $503 a month and nothing upfront? Or should I still be putting MSD’s up front?
BMW stopped accepting MSD now
Okay, so I should make it clear no money down and I want monthly payment less than 1% of MSRP? Otherwise, walk away from the deal?
Yep. That’s whats the gurus here have told!!
Well you don’t negotiate like that…
We’re just telling you your goals. No one here teaches how to negotiate.
Just negotiate sales price. Don’t tell them 1% or you walk…
I think your best bet would be to search this site for deals some hackrs have gotten and then that will give you a basis of what to shoot for.
Look for recent deals tho so that the incentives, residuals and money factor are similar to what they would be now!
Once you research this site and see the discounts ppl have gotten, that will give you a basis of what to ask the dealer for
I’ll be willing to spoonfeed you. Basically a 6 percent discount on a 330i is horrendous going on truecar.com you can find that in the zip code 91326 where i live on average people get 8-10 percent off right off the bat. shop around for better deals and out of state. Just getting a deal in california would save you 120 dollars off the document fee because california charges max 80 dollars if im correct.
This is the deal I got from Irvine BMW(send me the message for the contact info)
I have got a deal on BMW 330i_Display Assistant+Technology Package
All, thanks for the responses. Yes this gives me more information. And I’m sorry if I came across as asking for too much information. I understand.
Thanks for all the responses.
You also forgot to mention the MF is lowered by your corporate discount from base of .0015 to .0013, which most will not qualify for.
ALWAYS worth looking out of state. Both my leases were take-a-one-way-flight-and-drive-home deals almost 8-10 hours away. Put an extra 400 miles on the cars, but saved almost $3-4k over the life of the lease over a local deal because of a similar situation, just not a lot of competition between dealers.
One way plane ticket to a major city is at most $200-300, $20 cab ride (or have the dealer pick you up), do all the paperwork and negotiations over mail/phone, so just have to walk in, pick up the car, and drive on home.
unless you live in SoCal
i’m with @MConte05. Bought a 1 way ticket for $160 and drove the car back 700 mi and it was still worth it to the tune of thousands $$$.
I know this is late but reach out to Devin Wells at Kuni BMW or David P at BMW of Portland. Both are great to work with.