I will let OP do the math.
However, I am certain you are wrong. 1k diff simply can’t happen. We are talking about less than 1% difference, on 30,000K loan that would be a $300 a year difference even on a simple rate. Since we are talking on about interest on a decreasing principal, this will be even lower than that, but even school math gives us the upper bound of $300 a year (and in reality less than that).
OP, the thread is long and murky. What is your actual question at this point?
Was trying to figure out option a or B would be best to minimize risk of being under after a year of loan
If you’re worried about being upside down….let them keep the car and find another vehicle to lease in the $450-550/month range.
May have to lower your standards a little….but $550/month on a BMW coming out of warranty would make me uneasy (without the fear of being upside down).
If you’re not going to listen to advice and buy it no matter what….take the shorter term ($0 down).
You’re rolling $4,xxx into the RV and paying $6,xxx in payments. A year from now you’re in almost the same boat you’re in now.
You’re just kicking the can down the road.
What is the CPO fee?
No difference whatsoever. Unless you are considering declaring bankruptcy, the term of your loan have nothing to do with risk of being underwater.
Loan is not the lease, you own the asset and bear all risks of asset price going down.
No advice on the deal but wow, you’ve been posting for almost 2 hours…what are you still doing there? 
Check out DCU. It looks like their rate is 1.99% (if you do not have a checking account with them) for up to 65 months. I would reach out to them.
EDIT: There’s got to be credit unions in FL that offer a similar auto loan rate.
i wont own the car past the warranty, will move on before that
tell me about it smfh…
It’s Florida. I know dealers in Miami even open on Sunday’s. I am not from Florida but was once at Audi dealer near Hollywood on Sunday and I was the only customer looking for car. I test drove 3 CPO cars Q3, Q5 and A6. Sales guy was very nice fellow.
Normally dealer charge around 1.5k to CPO a car.
They have to bring car to a manufacturing standard and make sure it has good Tires , brakes etc to pass CPO standard. So they pass on that to the buyer. If car is not CPO then selling price should drop by 1-2 k .
Was this question ever answered?
Hoping OP can confirm the CPO fee.
People who step inside dealerships without a game plan and think the internet will bail them out …. Are just lambs to the slaughter
Your not wrong
CPO fee they are charging me 900 and I get a 500 rebate so only 400 net
Did they tell you if they doing anything to the car to bring to CPO specs or just giving you piece of mind for extra $400 if something breaks after the 4yr 50k warranty you are covered. $400 is not bad to get a car CPO if you planning to keep beyond company warranty. BMW do break right after you finish your warranty.
They did an inspection and I didn’t need to pay anything. I have one more year of warranty until 05/2023. Plan to get rid of it before then.
If you plan to get rid of it before warranty then why even bother for CPO and pay $400.
