the point i was making is that he got such an exceptional deal on a $56k car, it is unlikely to happen again in 2 years for the factors i listed. Imagine you go back to the dealer and all you could get for $350 is a 320i because the programs changed, BMW finally stopped inflating residuals and then you would have wished you could have stayed an extra year in the 340.
I do agree if it’s just a normal whatever lease that 24 mo is better than 36, i’m just saying in his case, given the uncertainty of future deals and this banging deal he got now, i would have taken 36 mo.
Also i assume his car was a 2016, starting 2017 models the incl maintenance doesn’t cover brakes etc so it would have been nice to keep a 2016.
I would love to get this BMW it is equipped essentially exactly the way I want (except I don’t really want or needheads up ) what do you think I could negotiate off on this
Can I get the price down to 50k or even less what is reasonable?
I am ideally looking to lease for 450 a month or under with drive offs including just acquisition taxes and first month I am willing to put as many security deposits possible.
The best I could do on a new 340i was 8800 off, however that included 1000 of USAA cash. No idea what Sterling is willing to do. I’m pretty sure you can get a similar deal to what I had on this though:
What would be fair to expect to pay for the black one that’s exactly what I want black with red leather… can it be done under 500 a month with just first months tax and acquisition at signing?
It all comes down to what that particular dealer can offer. Just send them an email asking what their Internet selling price is. Go from there. If they can’t meet it reach out to someone at Steve Thomas and see what’s doable if they were to do some dealer swap thing. Or. What would the price be if they were to order that confirmation from BMW and sell it to you then.
Edit:
Fwiw I ran this on my spreadsheet. If you can get ~$8000 off the selling price that would result in a payment of around. $490 for 36 mo/10k, drive off around $1500. That also requires 7 security deposits that would total $3500 (7x$500).
Think I can only get about 8 off on it I feel I should be able to get more I gotta get 15k miles per year. I’m waiting on them to get back to me if I can get it for 10 off I’m probably gonna go for it.
I’m trying to debate on getting the xdrive or going with rwd and getting good snow tires since I’ll prob end up changing the tires for winter anyways I do live in Wny where there’s a good amount of snow I’m going from a Honda Accord ex which was absolutely terrible in the snow. Any input on this?
Unless it comes with the Michelin Pilot Super Sport, plan on dumping (or saving) the stock run-flats, get the Michelins on your own, then get a set of spare snow tires (with rims). You can then throw one of them in the trunk as a full size spare, assuming you don’t mind the size it takes up. I’ve had nothing but RWD 3 series’ over the last 9 years in both Ohio and New Jersey. Never did I feel like I needed AWD, I always felt like I needed snow tires (that’s also true with FWD).
So if I were to custom order a black on red 2017 the same as the 2016 I posted what kind of a discount could I expect to get on that. I am realizing that the 2016 I posted has about 3 grand in options that I don’t necessarily need also I think I am going to just go with rwd and swap out the tires in the winter and put them back on in the summer. (Not sure how much I would save without getting xdrive)? I am estimating that the 2017 would be at least 5 grand less than 2016 plus I should be able to negotiate heavily as the dealer won’t have to stock the car. However isn’t the residual inflated more for 2016s as well as a lower money factor? also the maintenance is better
thanks for the help
Nope, wrong. You may get some discount, but not much. You need to realize that your only chance of getting $57-60K 340 for under $500 ± is to find a 2016 demo. You have to sacrifice some options, if you really want a 340.
You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometime you find
You get what you need
I’m with Ursus. Also, anytime you’re looking at a 328 that’s over $50k it’s time to stop, and move on to a 340i. For that matter, anything over $45k for a 328i should trigger one to really consider what one values. Ie. I was quoted $337/10k/36mo with $1800 drive off for this 340i, only reason we didn’t go that route was the lack of parking sensors, and the availability of a demo 340i that had that particular option.
What rebates did you qualify for? And is this before MSD’s?
That’s a great price on the car I want. Seems like I’ll have to settle for a 328 with the numbers I’m seeing tho.
I had the $1500 option allowance like everyone else, but I also had $1000 USAA. Those numbers were with 7 security deposits. What really kept things low is that the dealer discounted the car $6325 before the previously mentioned incentives. However on another car it was only $5825 (different internet manager on a 3 series, and an m235i), so, ymmv.
So. I actually just found the window sticker, turns out the msrp was $53,345. They had it advertised at ~45,500. Final agreed upon price was 43,070. Residual was 72% + ((3565-500 miles) x $0.25).
