Im going to try to explain this as clearly as I can. I had a deal going with an Audi dealership close to me for a 40,190 MRSP on a Q3 Sline premium 1,000 total due at signing 36k/12 at 415 tax included as well as Audi care this is all in email as well as text and through phone conversation so its all in writing! When I went to sign the papers the deal came back at 525 a month 3,000 due at signing, I call them to see what’s up long story short they said the sales person wrote it wrong xyz and the sales manager was a complete asshole. So I called other Audi dealerships and told them the situation and one came back with this. Im not sure how much they are giving off the msrp waiting for the email. This time but it seems like a fair amount as they are needing to make a sale.
New Dealer is beating the price
Q3 S line Premium with all upgrades
MSRP: 40,190
DAS: 1000 due at signing (including tags tittles etc)
Miles: 36/12k
RV:61%
Monthly Payment: 390 tax included
Waiving Audi care
It is practically impossible for us to tell you what a “good” monthly payment is for your specific lease as lease programs are highly dependent on region, personal qualifications, tax rates, etc.
We always recommend the following method before you ever contact a dealership. If you do all of the work up front, you’ll have a stress free dealer experience and set yourself for success.
Read Leasing 101 (Blog | LEASEHACKR) to understand how to calculate a lease payment and the variables. Monthly payment is an output, not an input!!
Pick a specific vehicle that you want to target
Gather the current MF, RV and incentives from Edmunds forums for your zip code
Research the LH marketplace and other deals that have been made recently on your vehicle - what was their pre-incentive discount? How did their lease terms differ?
Plug your numbers into the LH calculator, and use a pre-incentive discount similar to what you have seen
Create a target deal, this is what you’re trying to negotiate to. You can try different terms, selling price discount, etc. and see how your monthly payment is affected. It is also possible that different trims of your vehicle may have different MF and RV (i.e. this is very common with GM), so make sure that you look into that. Come up with a set of inputs that give you the output that you want - your desired monthly payment.
With a target price determined, you now have a deal to pursue and compare dealer offers against. More importantly, you have a solid foundation to work from.
this also is the deal. I was explaining the backstory. What car would be worth a deal? My lease is up next month ( I have three payments leftover because I deferred during Covid)
Have you considered working out a target price on a q3, based on the lease programs as they apply to you and researched comparable deals, so you can establish a target deal to pursue?
If you couldn’t afford the payments during the stay at home order and had to defer them, you should probably rethink a luxury SUV and instead consider the cheapest option possible.
Re Audi Care, if you are going to get the car serviced at the dealership, then Audi care could pay off, since it raises the residual by 1%. The 2 year/20K mile service is very expensive, since it includes replacing brake fluid and pollen/dust filters, among other things. It was a better deal before Audi recently raised the price.
This doesn’t look right, can’t be 61%. According to Edmunds, in FL, in Jan, it’s 57% for 36/10K, so it should be 56% for 36/12K
You need to confirm what RV, MF and selling price dealer uses to get to your 390/month/1000 DAS quote.
Just as a point of reference for dealer discount, I closed on my Q3 in December at 11.3% off of MSRP before incentives, but that was a month ago and the end of the year.
Oh man, right in the feels… It actually sits pretty high on 19" wheels.
I like it better than my previous X1, and I loved that thing. Ride is softer, tech is awesome, interior is really nice. The only thing I don’t love is that engine noise is more pronounced compared to X1. Overall I’m very happy with the switch.
So regarding the car sitting higher on 19" rims, it’s likely not as high as you think because of just the rim size difference.
For reference, the calculation to find out wheel height is: tire width (in mm) times sidewall height percentage times two (because the overall wheel diameter has two opposing sidewalls and rim is measured in diameter, not radius) divided by 25.4 (to convert mm to inches) plus rim size.
However, total wheel height should be divided by two as the center of the wheel to the ground is what is changing from wheel size between models. From the wheel mounting point and above ends up being suspension/chassis.
Google says 2020 Q3 has a tire size of: P235/50R19
So the math works out to: 235 x 0.50 x 2 / 25.4 +19 = 28.842 inches
Divide that by two to get 14.421 inches
Similarly, a 2020 A3 has a tire size of: P225/40R18
So the math works out to: 225 x 0.40 x 2 / 25.4 + 18 = 25.087 inches
Divide that by two to get 12.544
Thus, the height of a Q3 compared to A3 is less than 2" difference due to wheel and tire size differences.
Hmm. I just looked up the height difference. A3 is 56" high while Q3 is 63" (and Q5 is 65").
So most of the difference in height is between longer suspension and taller chassis/cabin.
You’re probably right on all the math, not disputing that. Could be not just 19" wheels, or not wheels at all. I’m going off of visual comparison of 2 cars sitting on my driveway - wife’s RX350 and Q3. Visually, Q3 is just as tall as Lexus. When I had X1, you could tell that is was much lower.
