Assistance appreciated regarding leasing a 22 or 23 Jeep GC 4xe in Florida

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Hello everyone. I have been reading this Forum for years, but just now joined. I apologize for my first long post. Although I am new to the Forum, I consider myself versed with leasing and the car business. In fact, I worked in the auto industry for several years. I am interested in leasing a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4xe in Florida. As such, this may be my first Chrysler product. I am willing to travel anywhere within the State. However, Central Florida is preferred. Thus, any direct referrals to particular dealerships that are known to negotiate deeply would be most appreciated. Unfortunately, my four-year-old had a life threating condition that necessitated an emergency heart surgery. Thankfully, she is now recovering well at home under our care, but requires subsequent testing, exams, appointments, etc. As such, this schedule does not allow sufficient time for research and educating myself regarding the intricacies of leasing a Jeep GC 4XE – although I have read/searched threads/posts on this Forum as time permits. I have mostly leased Japanese branded vehicles in the past. Nonetheless, I have noticed that leasing a Jeep/Chrysler product involves many other complexities (such as different financial institutions to select from, varying incentives, money factors, and residuals depending upon which one you select, inability or ability to sell to a third party prior to the lease maturation, etc.). For the abovementioned reasons, I signed-up to this Forum to seek assistance and answers to my questions.

Is it more advantageous to lease a 22 or 23? By advantageous, I mean deepest discount (assuming the 22’s), lowest money factor, highest residual, and most incentives. If the overall financial difference is negligible, the 23 would be an obviously better choice – especially if reselling prior to the lease maturing.

If I plan to sell the vehicle prior to lease maturation, a one-pay would not be recommended, correct? I assume that one-pays only apply to those planning to keep the vehicle for the entire lease term, right? I have no experience with one-pays.

Which lease term is the best all around (highest residual and lowest money factor)? 18, 24, 36, or 39 months? I am not interested in leasing past 39 months though.

Which financial institution(s) allow(s) selling to a third party prior to lease maturation? Unless there are significant savings, I am not interested in proceeding with a financial institution that does not allow selling to a third party.

Will the June incentives last through the 4th of July Holiday, or will updated ones be released on July 1st? Manufacturers usually release updated incentives at the beginning of each month. However, when a major Holiday is approaching, some will release at differing dates, and/or extend from one month to the next – until the Holiday is over.

Is there any “trunk money” from the manufacturer to the dealer for either year? For those not familiar, “trunk money” means monies payable from the manufacturer to the dealer (not to the consumer). However, the dealer can choose at their own discretion to further discount the car based upon receiving such monies (if any).
How is “triple net invoice” calculated for a 4XE? For those unfamiliar, this is the “true” dealer net cost for the vehicle after receiving all monies back from the manufacturer (holdback, wholesale financial reserve, advertising, etc.). For Toyota/Lexus for instance, the formula is to multiply the Wholesale Financial Reserve times three.

Last, but not least, I know that with some manufacturers, top level executives are allowed and at times encouraged to issue Employee Pricing PIN numbers to prospective buyers as a part of a conquest program to those that otherwise would not be considering the brand. Thus, it entices brand loyalists to try out and perhaps to a brand they have never owned, or have not done so for a while. For Chrysler, this results in 5% below invoice. I know that there is a Friends and Family Program as well, but that results in 1% below invoice, versus the 5%. Are Chrysler top level executives allowed to partake in such a thing? If so, would anyone be willing and able to assist me? Worst case scenario, I became a Tread Lightly member, thus qualifying me in about 30 days for the Chrysler Affiliate Program discount, which is the same as the Friends and Family at 1% below invoice. Nevertheless, if I am able to obtain a genuine Employee Discount deal, the savings are much deeper at the 5% below invoice.

As a side note, I have been unable to obtain the $1,000.00 TDM Private Offer coupon on Jeep’s website, despite building the vehicle on numerous occasions.

I would really appreciate obtaining the data outlined below as well, as it will aid me in making the best financial decision possible.

The following applies to 2022 models only (4xe base and Trailhawk 4xe)

What are the current money factors for 22’s (18, 24, 36, and 39 months)? Please specify if anything in between makes more financial sense.

What are the residuals for 22’s (18, 24, 36, and 39 months)? 7.5K, 10K and 12K miles per year. Please specify if anything in between makes more financial sense.

What are the incentives for 22’s in FL? I have noticed a lot of variations posted all over the Forums – even within the same geographical region. Please include private offers/coupons, how to obtain/qualify for them, etc. I currently own a hybrid (not Chrysler), but not a plug-in – if that matters at all to qualify for additional incentives.

The following applies to 2023 models only (4xe base and 4xe 30th Anniversary)

What are the current money factors for 23’s (18, 24, 36, and 39 months)? Please specify if anything in between makes more financial sense.

What are the residuals for 23’s (18, 24, 36, and 39 months)? 7.5K, 10K and 12K miles per year. Please specify if anything in between makes more financial sense.

What are the incentives for 23’s in FL? I have noticed a lot of variations posted all over the Forums – even within the same geographical region. Please include private offers/coupons, how to obtain/qualify for them, etc. I currently own a hybrid (not Chrysler), but not a plug-in – if that matters at all to qualify for additional incentives.

If you have managed to read through this entire post, and are able to provide constructive answers and assist, I will be forever grateful. Thanks a million in advance.

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I read the entirety and my best advice is to hire a broker… not in a mean way but what you are asking for is a lot and nobody will do for free.

The small fee is worth what you are asking people to answer. You’ll get a good deal and save time

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Thanks for your response/advice. I appreciate it. However, I always have and plan to always purchase/lease on my own. I have nothing against brokers. I have known several through my previous years in the car business. However, people usually utilize their services when they are unfamiliar with the ins and outs of the car business, are not comfortable in dealing/interacting with dealerships, and/or do not want to spend the time necessary to negotiate the best deal for themselves. I have been involved with sales (including car sales) in one way or another my entire life, and am a great negotiator. Also, I am not in a rush. People never make the best decisions when rushed and/or on impulse. Thanks for the suggestion though.

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All of the information youre asking for is readily available on this forum if you take the time to read through the many discussion threads on the gc 4xe.

As for all the specific numbers, having current, accurate information for residual value, money factor, and incentives is important in understanding your deal. As such, going directly to a source that has access to that data from the captive banks is your best option.

Rate Findr has that information, as they have direct access to it from the captive banks. It’s a tool on the Leasehackr Calculator, available to Super Supporters.

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Seems like you squarely fit into one of the criteria you laid out. Research is an essential part of spending the time necessary to negotiate the best deal for yourself.

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Yeah. You either have the time to go it your own and do the research to find all the answers you’re asking for, or you don’t. If you don’t, you should hire a broker.

Respect wanting to go it your own - many of us do - but those of us who typically do it ourselves also recognize and use brokers when time does not allow us that luxury.

Good luck!

PS rates and rebates are going to change tomorrow. Sit tight for a couple days.

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Thanks guys and gals. I will do this on my own without seeking a broker. I have read many 4xe threads. However, I am not certain if the entire information and sources are always reliable. Forums in general have a lot of convoluted posting and threads. But I did learn about becoming a Tread Lightly member to at least qualify for the Affiliate discount, also about the $1K TDM Private Offer, etc. Nevertheless, there is a lot of information outlined in this thread that I have not been able to locate - such as how to calculate triple net cost for a 4xe, how to obtain Employee Pricing (if possible at all), along with several other questions. At any rate, I was/am hoping that some “kind souls” may be willing and able to assist me, and perhaps answer my questions. I mean, I definitely would assist others if I were privy to the information I am requesting, and I have done so on other Forums. In any case, if I am unable to obtain the requested assistance here on this Forum, I will attempt to establish relationships with a few trusted dealerships, and ask them directly. I will then compare the information received to determine if accurate, or if deceitful. This has always worked out in the past. I believe from reading other threads/posts that a few that posted here are privy to this information. I have always tried to pay it forward. Heck, I have assisted probably hundreds of people in my lifetime with auto purchases without ever collecting a dime – even spending extended periods of time to materialize a car deal. That is just me though, and I do not expect others to follow suit. I waited to post this thread in June, because I knew the incentives would change. I would appreciate any negativity to remain out of this thread. If any are willing to answer/address my questions, that would be outstanding. If not, there is no sense (at least to me) in posting unrelated matters that do not address the content outlined in my thread. And that is Ok as well. I know that most will not want to waste their time directly assisting a stranger. I do have hope though, and frankly do not feel it was/is unreasonable to ask the questions I did. At least if several would address a question or two, I would perhaps have most, if not all of my questions addressed. And in doing so, it would not take too much time out of your schedule(s). I know that it is easy for many to post “use the search function”. We all have been guilty at one point or another of being the search function “police”,so to speak. However, at times, this sort of information may take weeks or months to compile. And it varies regionally, and from month to month as well. Hence, many variables are constantly changing. It is easy to neglect to remember that we have been or will be in those “newbie shoes” regarding certain topics at one point or another. A “helping hand” is always welcomed and appreciated.

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Relative to other models there is a lot of recent data on GC 4XEs.

If you switch out your approach and model/post a target deal (updated for your location and June’s programs when they become available) and ask for help optimizing it, you’ll probably get most of your questions answered as a biproduct.

Like most self-help forums, you’ll generally find a lot of people eager to help you go the last mile or two of your journey, but that implies that you’ve already invested your own time to get that far.

Good luck!

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June programs aren’t out yet.

And TBH you’ll get more answers if every post isn’t a wall of text.

Ask succinct questions, nothing else. $0.02

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This is irrelevant. Market value drives the price. There’s plenty of data to determine what that is.

If you do your research on pricing, you’ll see this is irrelevant

This is bullshit. Many of us spend countless hours on here going out of our way to help strangers.

The problem here is you’re not asking for strangers to help. You’re asking for strangers to do everything for you while simultaneously saying you refuse to use a broker because you want to “do it on your own”.

We’re here to try to teach a man to fish, and you’re asking not only to have the fish given to you, but cleaned, cooked, and cut up into bite size pieces while saying that you refuse to go to a restaurant because you want to be a fisherman.

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If you fall into analysis paralysis, then you are less likely to complete the deal. Most of sales rep at dealerships don’t have advance knowledge for all the questions that you are asking. They will going to their sales manager, and if you ask more questions like that, trust me, they won’t even want your business at that point.

Two years back I was a newbie on LH. I spent countless hours to read the posts on LH instead of posting my million of questions. If you do spend the time to read the 4xe posts on LH, you will get alot of idea about what to do next, and google the same to find more answers.

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I only read the first couple of sentences of each paragraph.

Here is my TLDR:

  1. What is the cheapest year/term for a GC4xe in FL?

  2. Should I do one-pay in FL if I plan to exit early?

Am I right and everything else is either irrelevant or would be addressed by answering those?

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24 or 39

If you plan on exiting within the firsr year, most likely no. After that, you’re money ahead.

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I never imagined that this post would create so much animosity and irrelevant/bogus philosophical/biblical responses. The pricing information I am seeking is very much relevant to me. This is not up for anyone else to determine if relevant or not. Being informed regarding true dealer net cost, any trunk monies usually not published anywhere on the Internet, and if any Employee Pricing is available, makes for the best educated purchase possible. All of my purchases/leases have always been way below any “market value” data published at the time of purchase. For instance, when I was shopping for my Camaro LT1, I did read the Forums to obtain MF/RV/other info, educated myself regarding that specific program, and leased one for much less than any of the deals I ever saw posted in these Forums. I have read this Forum for several years, However, I have experience with GM products (owned many), know hou to interpret their invoices, had access to Employee Pricing, knew how to calculate triple net pricing, and know people in the GM business. As I mentioned, I never leased nor purchased a Chrysler product, nor know anyone involved with Chryslers. I realized there are many more complexities and variances with leasing a Chrysler (per the reasons cited in my previous posts), when compared to any other manufacturer that I have ever leased from. Several of you have posted, but have not addressed one single question. This only results in wasting your time and mine. If you have nothing constructive to post, then please do not post. In doing so, you are just doing so for antagonistic purposes. If my thread or my person bothers you in any way, move on/do not bother to read/post, or put me in your ignore list; but please do not “crap” all over it. What amazes me, is that I mentioned in my first post about my daughter experiencing a life threatening medical condition that required an emergency surgery. Not one single person bothered to ask or mention anything about that (express compassion), nor even simply say “welcome to the Forums”. This alone speaks volumes about some (not all) of the humans that I am dealing with.

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Hey mate. My advice. Spend the few dollars, become a super supporter, and use the rate hackr calculator. Once June incentives are published you’ll have most of the battle won.

The questions you’re asking can be found right here in this forum with a little research. I know because I did just that, on the exact same model.

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Hope all is well with your daughter brother. Considering this…I’m sure you want as little headaches as possible. That being said, making a switch from Japanese to a Chrysler product is probably not in your best interest

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Thank you for your post and good wishes. My wife’s current lease is going to expire towards the end of the year. The ONLY reason for me seeking out a 4xe are the incredible deals and incentives, as there are no current similar lease deals/incentives for its Japanese counterparts (even though her current Japanese branded vehicle lease was gotten for a steal). I have owned several American branded cars, but all have been muscle/sports cars. Yes, the Chrysler reliability definitely is a concern though.

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The proper introspective response to this would have been “i wonder why those things are irrelevant and being told to me by people that are experienced in these things.”

Employee pricing is a worse deal than you can get without it. It’s irrelevant because its a waste of your time.

There are also plenty of deals that have been done that are deeper discounts than a triple 0 deal.

The only thing that matters is evaluating the discounts that the market will support, which youre going to find by looking at the numerous shared deals and broker offerings here. That doesnt mean published “market value” by edmunds or something like that. The only thing you should care about is what is actually possible.

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Fair enough. Thank you. Yes, deals on certain makes and models can certainly be attained for less than Employee Pricing. At one point, I had Employee Pricing available for a Volvo XC90 lease, but was able to attain pricing far below Employee. I did not proceed with that lease though, because I was able to obtain even better terms with a Lexus lease at the time. At times though, I have found that with a valid Employee Pricing PIN, the discount can be even deeper, because some dealers are willing to share the receivables from the manufacturer with the consumer that they receive for selling at Employee price. This of course does not always apply. For this very reason, I made this post regarding the GC 4xe, as I have no experience with them, or Chrysler in general - nor do I have any acquaintances at any Chrysler dealerships. So for me, knowing how to calculate triple net, etc. will aid me while negotiating and establishing when I feel I have found the deal with the best terms.

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I would say wait it out…that’s what I’m doing. Even if it means waiting a while. Stupid markets don’t last forever my friend

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