I would certainly Agree. A 2 in front of anything these days is quite impressive.
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This seems like a silly question, to be honest. You like all three and one is clearly far cheaper than the others, how can you NOT know the answer?
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To be quite honest, Iām not sure how the Accord can be so cheap. I was skeptical, which is why I walked out. With it being so cheap, could that affect me if I decide to sell it? I only plan for keep the car for 1-2 years MAX. Please help
Again, I donāt understand the question. A lease has a set residual. Paying less per month is only good for you. Please read Leasing 101.
Walking out because a deal is too good? Wow. Hopefully you can still get that deal, if it is indeed what you say it is. They probably were saying ā$0 downā and meaning to hit you with all the other ādue at signingā money. But you wonāt know until you ask.
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The steps given to you in the second post will walk through sorting out what it should cost and will help figure out where the discrepancies are in the deal. You need to do the work if you want to properly evaluate these.
Iām with @qbrozen in that theyāre probably $0 down rather than $0 das.
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All of these numbers sound incredibly cheap given the market circumstances right now.
It sounds like a. ā0 DOWNā type deal not 0 due at signing IMO.
yeah thereās no way an accord is 299 on a sign and drive. thats +++.
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The numbers are indeed real. Also, they are indeed $0 DAS! Iām learning al the new lingo. But, to be clear I will not have to pay any money when taking delivery of either of these vehicles.
To give some context, I have a new perfect credit history if there ever was such a thing. Also, I currently have a Honda.
Okay, letās say the residual value is too ambitious and the car is worth less than the projected residual
value at the time I want to sell the vehicle before lease end?
I donāt know if Iām making sense 
This is all new to me. Iāve tried doing research but something is not clicking, thus Iām seeking advice from you all.
The RV is what the RV is. Thereās no changing it.
If the car is worth way less than the RV at the end of the lease, congratsā¦ the bank has taken the depreciation hit and you paid less for the car. Thatās one of the benefits of lease. Turn in the keys, walk away, and be happy that the depreciation fairy smiled on you.
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$0 due at signing for an Accord SE including sales tax, DMV Fees, & Floridaās notoriously high ($999 in some cases) sunshine tax, I mean DOC Fee and $299 per month? Run back there and grab that car.
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I understand that. But what if I want to sell it before lease end?
Assuming Honda allows 3rd party sales at that point and thereās even equity, youād get back less money because you paid less money.
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Based off what? If they didnāt give you anything in writing and gave you 0 deal specifics what makes you think that?
Seems like they were throwing low numbers out to see if you would bite, (which you still didnāt).
If the deal is real than kudos to you, you must have just been in the right place at the right time but Iād be willing to bet a pretty penny that $299 with $0 DAS is going to change.
If it winds up being a real deal make sure to get the dealer/salesman information and tell him you probably can get him another 20 deals from leasehacker no problem 
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Of. Course. Now you tell us.
Yeah maybe itās ā$0 Cash DASā but itās also all your equity DAS.
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Okay I just got the RV for the Accord. Itās $18,489. $299 payment. $0 DAS. Thoughts?
Did you read and follow the instructions in the 2nd post from yesterday?
The only way to properly evaluate the deal is to know every number that goes into the equation to get the answer. Only having one or two of the numbers is like shooting in the dark.
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How much equity is there in the Honda you are trading in?
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That means nothing. What is the MSRP of the Accord?
What is the pre-incentive discount off MSRP? What is the breakdown of the fees (dealer fees, acquisition, registration)? Better yet, why not just share a link to a calculator with all this info?
