Advice on how to negotiate Lease price and trade-in value

Good morning, LHers.

Given that Chevrolet currently has a $1.5k trade-in incentive, I’m trying to leverage that to easily (???) get rid of one of my cars.

The car in question is a 2012 Audi TT Convertible with 247k miles on it and salvage title. Despite that, the car was my daily driver for a long time, very well maintained, never had any issues with it, it is in immaculate condition both mechanically and really good condition on the interior and exterior.

Since it it a quite low value car even for a private party sale, the 1.5k incentive can make trading it in quite interesting.

I’m aware that the best approach is to segregate the sale of a car to a private party and the lease process, but in this scenario what’s your opinion on how to proceed?

The car I’m trying to lease is a loaner Silverado EV RST with 5k miles on it and I’m planning to do a very aggressive offer on it (around 20% off MSRP and a one-pay lease).

Thoughts?

PS: I don’t wanna/need to keep 3 cars in the household anymore, so if I get another car, the Audi must go.

the rebate spells it out:

Trade-In Requirement:

Customers that own a 2011 or newer passenger car or truck (including 3/4 ton and one ton pickups and vans).

just tell them you have a 2012 Audi TT Convertible to trade. they’ll give you some amount of money for it and you’ll get the rebate. seems pretty cut and dry to me?

Just include it in your offer to them. We normally recommend sending over all the details and let the dealer take it or leave it. Include a reasonable value for the car plus the $1500 rebate in your offer and see if dealership bites.

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The question wasn’t about the rebate itself, but how to play the negotiation game with the dealer.

So in my proposal I should include the details of the car, the expected trade in value and the expected discount on the new car?

No “games”, no nothing? Just straight to the point?

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right, what i’m saying is that there’s no “game” to be played. your car isn’t worth anything to a dealer, you need to trade the car to get the rebate…just tell them you’re trading it to get the rebate.

if this was a car that had a level of value that would impact the negotiation it’s a different story (or game).

They’ll play as many games as you let them play

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Makes sense.

Thank you both.

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Keep up posted how this pans out. Salvage title car naturally is a turn off for many but to use it for trade credit is interesting.

Just assume they’ll give you scrap value for it. Maybe $500?

So unless you can get more than $2,000 private party, go for it.

My approach would be to concentrate on the big picture and focus on nailing down the Silverado lease first.

Because I doubt anyone’s going to offer you more than scrap value for the trade, I wouldn’t add that element in the initial offer you will make. My guesstimate is that your odds of success go from 1/20 to like 1/100 if your initial offer indicates you’re valuing your trade at X and need that to close the deal.

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Dang… I’m pretty sure I can get more than 2k for it…

Wasn’t expecting such a low ball offer.

I have 2016 Tahoe PPV - with 138k miles - very decent condition (Except for check engine light - with some electrical issue) - I have been offered $7.5k but I am looking for at least $9K.
Any better place to sell it?

Yes here’s where to look.

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This is very subjective as you obviously feel it has value. Personally I think this kind of car is just a headache for a dealer. They can’t sell a 250k miles car that’s salvage so they would auction it and it would bring them close to nothing and the hassle of shipping it to an auction + fees would almost not be worth the trouble. It’s a car at the end of its life, sorry to say.

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Yeah, I know… it is still a car in very good running condition.

Should have sold it last year when I had offers around 7k (but I still needed the car back them).

From a dealer perspective, yes. It’s extremely unlikely anyone will want to buy this at auction hoping it doesn’t need big money fixes and then retail it knowing god knows how long that will take.

A private individual may still see value in it.

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If they only give scrap metal offer you could also look at donating the car if you itemize and see if you can get a receipt with a tax value high enough to claim a deduction that would put you ahead of $2000 or whatever value they give you.

Adding more color to it… the car is a salvage REBUILD title (forgot to mention it). Maybe that’s why you guys are suggesting me to scrap it. :sweat_smile:

This is the car today, you can’t tell it was ever in a crash:

Why would offers today be substantially lower? Get offers today and then you can figure out if the rebate is worth it or not. Personally as @max_g stated I would just negotiate the new deal and then see what they can offer you on your Audi. If the math works take the rebate if it doesn’t sell it separately.

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beautiful car, for a private sale

For a Dealer, that thing is nuclear radioactive since it is Salvage.

You will have more luck on Bring a Trailer or Cars and Bids then directly with a dealer.