and here I am trying to help you understand this so that you don’t come off as a lunatic to the dealership who is actually honestly telling you these parts came with the car and are manufacturer installed.
I am glad we were able to assist with the basic math of 39600+1300+95+175+55+120+65=41,410.00 which means these parts are on your window sticker, and not dealer add-ons.
Pro-tip for you (that I’m sure you don’t care about): Being inquisitive and nice will go a lot further than being a tough ass when trying to save money, dealers are much more likely to work with you when you’re understanding versus being insistent of things that aren’t correct.
Thanks for the dog pile, one and all. I get it, instead of calling BS I readily accept I’m a (insert hilarious moniker) on this one. And while $345 or $500 are perhaps trivial amounts to some, they aren’t for me personally. My apologies to IAC_Scott the broker as well.
From my snarky attitude it’s obvious I have a hefty distrust of dealers, which only recently came about. I drove away happy from all of our previous lease transactions which were straight forward. And those were before LH even existed. Now, however—it’s a struggle to get sales reps to answer promptly or provide transparent numbers.
Yeah it’s too bad good brokers don’t seem to operate in Oregon. IMO the auto industry (edit the traditional franchised dealer model) has become very consumer unfriendly since the pandemic.
The LH Brokers and more savvy dealerships operating successfully here on LH seem to be the exception. But the general norm is for dealers to act as if they have the power as they attempt to extract maximum margins from buyers. As you noted, $345 is $345. A dealer that can smash that extra margin into a sale will do so since it’s worth their while and buyers may just pay up without any fuss.
I think this is why people would rather over-pay when they get a Tesla, than feel like they have to go through a pain-fest to acquire another vehicle. Like a completely base - no - options Model 3 lease here in Norcal is $529 a month (after all taxes, fees, etc).
Someone can get into a nicely equipped Mercedes EQB, Nissan Aryia, or Kia EV6 for less than that. However, since people hate dealerships so much, they’ll just take the Tesla since the pain of suffering a traditional dealership isn’t worth the savings.
I agree with you on the observation that post-pandemic car dealer atmosphere is buyer/leaser-hostile.
And why are there no brokers working the PNW? (Too many huffy fussers like myself?)
I’d look at a Tesla, but this will be a replacement for my wife’s Niro EV which is at lease end. With 2 kids in college and two more on deck in 2 years, cost is definitely top of mind.
FYI, if it is on the Monroney label, it also has to be there at lease turn in. So if the dealer decides to “remove” those items from the car and discount it, you would still be responsible for ensuring those listed accessories are turned in with the car. If they are not, expect a bill from the bank for those items.
Car companies have been selling overpriced floor mats, overpriced insurance and protection plans, such as Gap insurance, and other overpriced accessories for decades. Otherwise, people would not pay $400 for floor mats and would buy them at Auto zone for $40 instead.
Instead of attacking the car sales people/managers for doing what they are paid to do, just keep this information “to yourself” when negotiating. Generally, my experience has been dealers have said “more than once”:
We are only (a few hundred dollars) apart. Most dealers wont abandon a deal for $400, but would at least split it with you..and leave the floor mats and other stuff in the car.
"If" this is the only issue you have with the car/price/terms etc., then use it as a negotiation point. But, as already mentioned, "negotiate like a gentleman".
Here is how I would do it (and have, done it, on approximately 100 + cars in my lifetime:
Me: The car seems like it would probably work, provided that, you are willing to work with me on the price. Can you afford for me to "walk away" for a few hundred bucks? Isnt a half a loaf of bread better than none?
If you are serious about selling this car to me, you need to know Im a serious buyer..at the right price. Now, why not just give me the discount I asked for and we can drive away as friends.
You need to let them know you are serious, and ready to buy Today.now..if they give you your price. Talk is cheap, so take out your checkbook and write them a deposit for the car (at your discount price). Start writing the check, make them stop you.
Dealers hate to stop customers from writing a check. They are used to asking the customer to write a check, not trying to talk a customer out of writing one.
