Acura ZDX - how do you negotiate a 'One Pay'?

Relatively new to leasing and heading out for a second look at the Acura ZDX. Most deals seem to be for the AWD Aspec in my area and not the S-type. I don’t drive much so looking at 36 or maybe 24 month at 7500 miles.

Advertised special near me has $4995 down and $229/m x 36m which, with MA tax, gets to $13,754 over 3 years or $382/m effective. Not awful for a 70k car (and half of the negotiated amount on the Q6 that didn’t wow me).

A search here showed me a few One Pay deals including $4629 for 24m/7500 in DC in March; another for $7,898 for 24m/15k in CA in May and a $7,430 for a 24m/7500 in FL in March.

How would you negotiate these deals?
And where do you make sure that the prorated amount is not forfeited in case of severe accident?
Is there anywhere else the dealer can hide fees/math on a One Pay??

Thanks!

You negotiate it exactly like any other deal. Structure your target deal and make an unambiguous offer.

There are no extra steps here other than just saying you want it as a one pay.

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You don’t really negotiate a one-pay. You decide after everything is optimized** how to structure the payments.

** Some dealers won’t do one-pays.

One-Pay Leases | General Questions and Discussion - Off-Ramp - Leasehackr Forum

These are almost always horrible. There is no substitute for fully researching what to pay. Not all terms make sense either (sometimes 24 months is the only reasonable choice, other times it’s 18 or 48 or 36 or 39 or 27 or… well, you get it :slight_smile: ).

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Thank you both

There aren’t a ton of Signed Deals on this to compare apples to apples as mileage allowance differs wildly.

The mileage allowance is irrelevant to your comparison points.

You should be comparing pre-incentive discount and then applying the lease programs as they apply to your personal situation. You’re not comparing final monthly/one-pay price.

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FWIW-

Structuring a Non-Optimal Single Payment Lease

In practice, the single pay amount is calculated using a discounted cost of money (e.g., MF) to compute the base monthly payment. For example…

Base Monthly Payment = P = MFd x (ACC + RV) + (ACC – RV)/ N
= .00151 x (42860.10 + 32045.00) + (42860.10 - 32045.00)/ 48
= 338.42

The base single payment is…

Base Single Payment = N x P
= 48 x 338.42
= 16244.16

N = Term
MFd = Discounted Money Factor
ACC = Adjusted Capitalized Cost
RV = Residual Value

The single payment is virgin territory and, as such, no amount should ever be added or subtracted from it as this would distort and invalidate ALB calculations using any of the three methods described above. As such, never add taxes or subtract trade credit from the base single payment. In fact, tax is never considered except when calculating tax separately at lease inception or if the purchase option is exercised. Base Single Payment = NP nothing more, nothing less… To illustrate, consider the following lease inception fees. I’ll assume that taxes are levied on payments rather than the sell price (TX) or on the depreciation (GA)…

Observe that the 1299.53 single pay tax is calculated separately and has its own line entry as does the 3000.00 trade equity credit as well as the base single payment. Although there is 1500.00 due at signing and despite the rebate/cash and trade equity credits, the base single pay of 16244.16 remains unaffected. It is what it is.

The above is a poor way to structure a single pay lease. In practice, one would use all rebates and any trade equity as a capitalized cost reduction (CCR) provided the adjusted capitalized cost (ACC) remains at or above the residual value (RV). The goal is to minimize the difference between the (ACC) and the (RV) with the caveat that ACC ≥ RV to avoid negative depreciation. This would result in a minimum cost single pay lease.

Structuring an Optimal Minimum Cost Lease

Let’s structure a minimum cost single pay lease and see if we can reduce the 1500.00 DAS. Taking inventory of the relevant data at the top of this thread provides us with the following…

Term = 48
Selling Price = 42860.10
Adj. Cap Cost (ACC) = 42860.10
Residual Value (RV) = 32045.00
Discounted Money Factor (MF) = .00151
Sales Tax Rate = 8.00%
Trade Equity Credit = 3000.00
Rebate = 14500.00

Minimum cost occurs when ACC = RV. Right now, ACC – RV = 10815.10. The idea is to reduce this difference to zero, if possible. Assuming the 3000-trade equity is non-taxable, we’ll use the entire credit as a CCR. This means we still need to lose 10815.10 – 3000.00 = 7815.10 so that the ACC = RV. Accordingly, 7815.10 of the 14500.00 rebate will be used as a CCR. As such, ACC = 32045.00 and 14500.00 – 7815.10 = 6684.90 remains which will be used to cover all or some portion of the lease inception charges tabled below…


By optimally allocating credits we’ve managed to save 1500.00 – 413.80 = 1086.20. And, if we terminate the lease after 7 months using any one of the above methods, we arrive at an ALB = 28032.73, which is 686.42 more than the ALB previously calculated. Even after calculating the additional tax of 54.91, we’re still ahead by 344.87. BTW, the CYR = 3.92156663%

Although ACC = RV is optimal, some fund providers require that ACC > RV + L where L is the threshold limit. This ensures that ACC > RV which also serves as protection against negative amortization. However, absent any threshold criteria, if, after applying CCR rebates/credits, ACC < RV, then welcome to the world of negative depreciation. You’ll need to perform a rebate allocation where a portion of it is used as a CCR, and the balance is used to cover some or all of the lease inception fees similar to what was done above. In a single pay lease, it is unlikely that all lease inception fees will be covered, including the single payment, with a rebate apportionment to the extent that DAS = 0. Even if DAS = 0, the single pay does not go away as rebates were used to pay it which is no different than if you paid it out of pocket. In other words, someone or something had to pay for it.

This may be stating the obvious, but the reason for the discounted cost of money (MF) is to incentivize customers to accept the single pay option in lieu of traditional monthly payments. What is less obvious is that the discounted MF attempts to capture the time value of money (TVM). In other words, the application of a discounted MF can be viewed as a conscious or unconscious effort to estimate the present value of the base monthly payments using an appropriate discounted interest rate.

Structuring a lease properly means everything and, please, don’t trust the dealer to do this for you as most are clueless and don’t even care or even think of such things. That’s unfortunate because it could be a good selling point. This is just one more reason why lessees must control the deal.

??? Let me know.

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Read the early termination section in the lease agreement.

Do a deep dive and research a reasonable selling price in your market. Sometimes, dealers embed rebates in their discount. Keep them separate but recognize that transparency may become an issue. Secure a copy of the factory window sticker. Check for non-factory add-ons or dealer-installed options. If possible, eliminate those you don’t need or want. Get a list of customer rebates, incentives, and credits (e.g., electric chargers) including VIN-specific discounts, if any. The dealer has such a list. GM calls this list the Customer Incentive Acknowledgement form which includes mandatory rebate and incentive disclosures. Restrictions may apply to the extent that some rebates may not be required disclosures such as college grad, military, educators, AMEX, Costco, etc.

Organize all researched and vetted data with the goal of creating a lease proposal that reflects your target deal. The idea is to create your own deal, not replicate or reverse engineer the dealer’s deal.

Craft a lease proposal and email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they’re often Mickey D order takers and lack knowledge. Be sure to contact the SM first to let them know you’re emailing them a one-page lease proposal b/c you want to close the deal today or, at the very latest, tomorrow. Email the proposal as soon as you hang up. It must be comprehensive, authoritative, professional-looking, and flawless otherwise, you’ll lose credibility.

Negotiate via phone/email. Be nice but firm. Explain to them that it is your practice not to deal with multiple dealers simultaneously as it is poor business practice and that you refuse to play games like “can you match or beat this”. Above all, say what you mean and mean what you say. Remember that local dealers know each other. Speak in a commanding and business-like voice that exudes confidence. Unless they’re very stupid, once they see your fabulous proposal it will speak volumes. They’ll immediately know it’s time to put away their toys and board games and get down to business absent all the BS.

Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as excess wear/tear criteria. If all terms are as agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign asap. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.

If the dealer isn’t transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!

Leasing is time-consuming and requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time or interest to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on this website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, be sure to always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.

This should be a sticky! Thank you!

Actually just signed for a 2024 Audi SQ8 Sportback Premium Plus for 2900 down and 599/m for 24m/7500 using @Bostoncarconcierge - lucked out with a one-off crazy deal only an hour’s drive from me.

But will keep this in mind (copied to my Notes app) when I have to research the next lease in 2 years.

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Enjoy your new ride and good luck!

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