So i have been pricing up some new leases….if a lease is just too good to be true does that mean the “deal” is full of red flags??
I ask because I received really good numbers on a lease and when I shopped it around I was told that there is no way that deal can be done, that maybe they didnt include taxes and or other fees in the number meanwhile I know they did because I asked that they do a true 0 out of pocket and just a monthly number. What I did see was a sky high selling price at the end of lease.
Now does it matter if the selling price at the end of the lease is astronomically high even though I have no plans to buyout the lease at the end .
Wouldn’t be the first time I have seen a dealer offer a financing option that looked like a lease but was actually a balloon loan. Just have to verify everything checks out.
So i shopped it at a handful of dealerships and knew I wanted to pay somewhere in mid 400s ..this is a 42 k ish car…..when I got a text from a local dealership they said 0 money and 450 a month so I thoight let me shop it. The next dealer came in better at about 15 less per month so I was feeling confident in my monthly figures but then when I saw the selling price at the end of the lease I sort of questioned it…
People genuinely are here to help and you’ve been on here going on 8 years now so I assume you have a good idea how this works…with that being said any reason to not give us a little more context or mystery car information in order to help you?
Sure…I can provide as much info as you need so I can get an understanding
I’m no lease hacker professional by any means, I watch what prices are out tbere and take time and research but its that last and final worksheet that im given that gets me nervous, so I backed out last minute which I didnt do last time I leased a handful of years ago.
It’s rare to see credit union deals here in general outside of one or two dealers / brokers that utilize them, even more rare in Florida. If it isn’t clear, this is just my observations & not based in hard data.
Let’s start with what make & model your targeting?
A sky high RV isn’t bad in of itself as already mentioned before however a credit union or non-captive lessor makes money by lending more than maybe a captive bank who exists to work in conjunction with the automaker to drive sales.
Many times a non-captive lender will couple a sky high rv with a sky high mf and include incentives to make the numbers work for them.
What numbers is the captive lessor providing for this vehicle from your research ( mf, rv, incentives ) and what does the comparison look like from the credit union proposal ( mf, rv, incentives ) ?
I tried the calculator…I just cant seem to get every number i need to finish off the final results and that does get frustrating…
Sometimes though ill use someone else’s calculator and change some numbers around..
For instance when I got the numbers I got i knew there wasnt an easy way to get it to work but then I just figured im paying nearly 1% of the msrp so I was cool with that but most will disagree especially those who know how to construct a lease hacker calculator
Oh 1%! Screw the calculator! Just sign it! You are certainly getting a deal. I just don’t know the car, MSRP, discount, rebates, MF or RV. But it’s fine.
