Who sets the MF? Does it vary by location? By car? How often does it change? Can it be negotiated?
Thanks in advance!!!
Year: [2017]
Make, Model, and Trim: [GLC Coupe]
Months/Annual Mileage: [36/7500K]
Zip Code: [94117]
The banks sets the base MF and it can change every month. For MB, each model and even trim can have a different MF. Dealerships can mark up the MF, so you can negotiate to get the base MF, but you cannot get lower than base without MSDs/autopay.
I think sometimes there’s corporate incentives that lower the base MF too, but it’s rare. My BMW got lower than base MF and I’m still not sure how the heck that happened. Didn’t want to question it 
NOTE: I’m by no means an expert in this, so take that with a grain of salt. 
that’s super helpful - thanks!
@Jon thanks so much! where can i check the bank base MF?
Every car could have a different MF. I hear Mercedes even has different MF per trim type. You can ask here or you can go on edmunds and you could probably get the answer quicker.
I’m not @jon, but the best way to get MF is on Edmunds
https://forums.edmunds.com/
Last time I checked, it’s only 1% MSRP of RV difference to go from 7.5k/yr to 10k. That’s only $450 plus interest on a $45,000 MSRP car spread out over the entire lease. That will get you 30,000 total miles instead of 22,500. Something to think about unless you really, truly never drive more than 7,500 miles per year.
@max_g Good point. And the equity we have now at the end of our lease is giving us a little flexibility because every dealership we’ve gone to for a new car would take our current car and we’d be out free and clear as soon as we want to lease something new. So that has made the negotiation process easier because we don’t have to rush into anything or wait until the end of the lease.
Are you sure that means you have equity? The dealer can just be rolling whatever payments left or neg equity into the new lease.
1 Like
Thanks @Jon That’s a good point. I haven’t gone far enough down that road to get all the details, but I have an appointment to take it to CarMax to see what kind of cash I could get for it so that’s not an issue.
Either way, you’ll want to maximize any positive equity or minimize any negative. Not just with carmax but with any dealer you negotiate with.
PS: If you have a car, i.e. not a SUV, do not expect much from carmax. See my thread on that subject. What vehicle do you have, how much is owed and what is it worth according to KBB or Edmunds?
@max_g Lexus 450H 2013 26,600 miles. We paid for 48,000 miles in a horrendous deal my husband non-negotiated (that’s why Im on this site this time around). Dealer payoff is $27,159 and KBB lists the trade-in value between 28-29K.
You’re the best! That was helpful. Although dealer is waaay off and unwilling to budge. Going to hold off until the 2018s come out but good practice figuring out what a “good deal” is. 
According to the dealer, an MF that’s .001 above the manufacturer and MSRP on a CPO that’s a 2% discount is a great deal that I need to act fast on 
How is the inventory in the 2017s now? If inventory is low, I doubt the 2018s arriving will affect the 2017s too much. Heck, maybe 2017s might even sell out before the 2018s roll in.
Try with an email that says Chris (like Chris Evert)…take your gender and any sexism out of the dealer’s estimation of your gullibility
Lol. Probably not a bad idea. Although they should be more afraid of my negotiating - I spend 6 hours a day negotiating with a 4 and a 6 year old who follow me around screaming when I try to get them to do something they don’t want to do. A car salesman is just going to say no. On email.
1 Like