They’re not selling it at MSRP. They’re selling is at MSRP - Discount = 57150 - 2588 = 54562
Yes, Audi will do an early buyout. Look at their lease agreement under early termination.
Let’s look at the dealer worksheet. You have 4000 worth of rebates. Of this amount, 2480.69 is used as a cap reduction. the 1519.31 balance is used to cover all your lease iception fees as follows…
1st payment… 796.66
CCR Tax… 173.65 … = 7.00% x 2480.69
Dealer Doc Fee… 398.00
Gov. TLR Fees… 151.00
TOTAL… 1519.31
Rebate Credit… 1519.31
DAS… 0.00
MSRP… 57150.00
Sell Price… 54562.00
Audi Acq Fee… 895.00
Lease Tax… 1865.83
Gross Cap… 57322.88
*****CCR - Partial Rebate… 2480.89
Net Cap… 54842.14
MF… .00237
RF… 59%
RV… 33718.50 … 59% x MSRP
Term… 36
Rebates… 4000.00
- The CCR is a calculated number. I can show you how it is done if you’re interested.
Don’t waste time trying to decipher a dealer’s worksheet. Otherwise, you’re allowing them to control the deal. They often omit relevant detail such as the money factor; don’t itemize fees and occasionally make mistakes. Rely on credible outside sources (e.g., LH marketplace and LH signed deals and tips, Edmunds, etc.).
Yes, dealer worksheet input data can be useful. However, all dealer-provided data must be vetted such as acquisition fee, doc fee (regulated by some states), cost of money (e.g., money factor, gov fees, residual, rebates, sales tax rate, etc.). Make sure the residual matches the term and annual mileage requirement. Check available tax credits/incentives via the dealer who may issue tax credits or assess a lower sales tax rate to energize sales for some models (e.g., Texas).
Research selling prices in your market coupled with reasonable expectations. Sometimes, dealers embed rebates in their discount. Keep them separate. Get a list of customer rebates, incentives, and credits (e.g., electric chargers) including VIN-specific discounts, if any. The dealer has such a list. GM calls their list the Customer Incentive Acknowledgement form which includes manufacturer rebate and incentive disclosures. Restrictions may apply to the extent that some rebates may not be disclosed such as college grad, military, educators, AMEX, Costco, etc.
Secure a copy of the factory window sticker. Check for non-factory add-ons or dealer-installed options. If possible, eliminate those you don’t want or need.
Organize all researched and vetted data with the goal of creating a one-page professional-looking lease proposal that reflects your target deal. The idea is to create your own deal, not replicate or reverse engineer the dealer’s deal.
Once you’ve performed all calculations having gathered, vetted, and organized all data, craft a lease proposal and email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they often lack knowledge and are tethered to their SM. Be sure to contact the SM first to let them know you’re emailing them a one-page lease proposal because you want to close the deal today or, at the very latest, tomorrow. Send the proposal as soon as you hang up. It must be comprehensive, authoritative, professional-looking, and flawless otherwise, you’ll lose credibility. Below is an example of a lease proposal using the above data…
Negotiate via phone/email. I prefer the phone. Be nice but firm. Explain to them that it is your practice not to deal with multiple dealers simultaneously and that you refuse to play games like “can you match or beat this”. Above all, say what you mean and mean what you say. Remember that local dealers know each other. Speak in a commanding and business-like voice that exudes confidence and knowledge. Unless they’re very stupid, once they see your fabulous proposal it will speak volumes. They’ll immediately know it’s time to put away their toys and board games and get down to business absent all the BS.
Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as excess wear/tear criteria. If all the terms are mutually agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign in an hour or two. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.
If the dealer isn’t transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!
Leasing is time-consuming and requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time or interest to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on the LH website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, be sure to always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.
BTW, I live in North Ridgeville not far from Cleveland.
??? Let me know.
