2025 Tahoe RST Loaner - $900/mo; $2900 DAS

I don’t have all of the details yet (I will get them). So, let’s avoid pointing out all of that, if we could, please! Far from my first lease. But, with this car, and brand, it is my first, and I’ve found very little out there about what makes for a good deal on them. In fact, I’ve seen few posts in general, with many saying they more-or-less sell themselves, so getting a good lease on them isn’t really a thing (basically, pay to play).

In any event, I’m working a deal on a ~$75k Tahoe RST Loaner:

(1) 36 months

(2) 10k mi/year

(3) $2,000 down

(4) $900/mo

(5) $2,900 DAS

I’m led to believe this is basically as good as it can get. As noted above, I’m waiting on some of the other details (I.e.: exact selling price, MF, etc.). This includes supplier, what I assume is a further discount because it’s a loaner, and loyalty.

All I’m trying to find out, really, is whether people have had more success on Tahoe’s and if there’s more room to go here.

Thanks!

Not a bad deal on a redesigned RST, if the $2900 DAS includes the $2,000 down. I’d recommend not putting any $$ down, as you lose that money in the event of a total loss.

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Thanks! Yes, the $2,900 DAS includes the $2,000 DP.

Yes, generally, I don’t. Presumably, I could get them to do $950 with $0 DP (not sure if they’d do sign-and-drive or $950 DAS).

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The right strategy is probably to buy a brand new one at the best OTD price possible

There’s no really no planet where it makes sense to spend $34,400 + disp + any excess wear fees to rent a Tahoe and then return it and walk away.

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Buying probably puts us at $1,500+/mo. Why is this a bad play if I intend to buy it after the lease ends?

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In most cases no one should be taking a Tahoe/Yukon lease to term. Select a good spec/mid trim model and sell in year 3 or buy it out. History is only a guide but even pre-Covid residual have been significantly under reality.

This comparison depends on the APR of the lease and the potential finance deal.

Thanks, all. Then, let’s just for the purposes of this conversation, assume I would be walking away. We can debate the logic in that all day. But, that doesn’t really address whether the lease deal itself is a good deal or if there’s more to be had here.

It’s been discussed heavily on here in the past- the question of leasing a full size SUV. All of them (Expedition, Tahoe, Yukon, etc) tend to never have favorable leases. Since their depreciation is relatively low, it usually makes sense to buy/finance them. Especially if you plan to keep it long term. It’s just a matter of looking at the total cost of ownership. You can run the numbers either way, but you will likely come out ahead if you buy.

If you’re dead set on leasing, the QX80 might be a better deal.

But compared to other Tahoe/Yukon leases, your deal is not bad in comparison.

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I get all of that. I appreciate the insight.

The Mrs is set on the Tahoe. So, that’s what it is. Happy wife, happy life, right?

Your bottom-line analysis is what I was really after. Putting all else aside, is this specific deal good, bad, or could it be better? It sounds like it’s a good deal.

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A good deal is subjective here. Leasing these vehicles are not favorable…which would probably not qualify for being a good deal.

Your buy rate with excellent credit is going to be around 8% for this lease. Your residual is going to be 55%.

Given that, you should approach this deal in the same manner as you would any deal…negotiate the lowest out the door price. But know, leasing will be worse than buying outright.

Oh that makes it even worse. Calculate the sum of both payment streams: the full lease plus financing the RV + TTL with a used car loan. You’d be way better off financing on day one.

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you can get pretty close to that lease payment with a similar amount down payment and an 84 month loan from penfed. i personally would do 72 because 84 seems like a long time but :man_shrugging:

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The payment is irrelevant to the value proposition of buying.

You’ll buy the car for X and sell it for Y.

For a duration of Z months, your effective monthly cost for the car itself is

(X - Y + [interest paid]) / Z

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The problem is, most people (including Mr. Urus and G580) is that they can’t afford the holding costs during the period of ownership. He might be able to afford 950/mo but can’t afford $1500/mo or a down payment big enough to bring the 1500 down to 950

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Think that fundamentally means they’re buying too much car then

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I agree. But this is America in 2025

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:100: I didn’t want to be seen as the prick lol. I don’t know why we beat around the bush. Lets just call it for what it is - people are payment shoppers. Having the lower monthly is much more important than what XYZ actually costs at the end of the day (TCO). This gets worse YOY and partly because consumers beg for it.

OP - it has already been made quite clear but I’ll reiterate. Is this a decent lease offer for this particular vehicle? Sure. Is it the best decision if we take a step back? Perhaps not.

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This is a good deal for what it is to be honest.

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Thanks, all. I understand ALL of these points. I also fully recognize that this is neither the best car to lease, nor does it necessarily make more sense to lease versus buy.

My question was purely focused on whether this lease deal, on this vehicle, is a good one. Nothing more. From running the calculator, to get these numbers to work, they’re taking nearly 23% off the sticker. All else aside, I don’t think I’d be able to get a better deal on it.