Big Thanks to @Jon and @carrot56
***Important note I would like to add. if you live in an area where you don’t need 4WD, get the FWD as it will be alot cheaper on insurance. My insurance was 900 (FWD Touring) vs 1600 (AWD Touring) from AAA for 1 year. ***
Did a one pay 4700 for 2 years @ 10K miles per year. Now how do I unload my Jeep 4xe which I still have 8 months left and negative eq of about 4k-8k?
Thank you for sharing!
Congrats on the deal!
That’s a great deal! Congrats. 16% off MSRP is not shabby at all 
and you didn’t even have the $3500 conquest?
Yep, 16% off MSRP and i got the 7500+3500+??? = 16500
I think ? = captive lease cash $5,500.
How was the negotiation? Just made the offer at 16% off and they said you have a deal? Haha
@Carrot56 did the negotiations and @Jon did the deal first and gave me the paperwork. I just shopped it around and found one near my house because I didn’t want to drive.
There’s $17500 total in rebates, including the $3500 for loyalty/conquest. $16500 of the rebates are taxed, so the sales price included $1000 in dealer cash incentive.
Haha, nice and easy then. Good stuff
hi all, new to leasing here. Can someone help explain the $16,500 I see everyone getting? I’m also in CA (Bay Area/NorCal).
So there’s the $7500 tax rebate + $3500 Conquest (if you qualify). Where does the remaining $5500 come from?
My issue is that I do not have a qualifying car for the Conquest, so all the dealers I’ve visited or spoken aren’t willing to bring the numbers down in lieu of Conquest. So they say add $150/mo to the monthlies, or add $3500 to whatever One-pay they’re promoting. I’ve seen so many $0 down/no Conquest come out to less than $300 even on Elites!
You are better off getting a Hyundai ionic5 or 6 if you don’t qualify for that 3500 conquest or loyalty. Ionic5 is a better car in my opinion.
Does 2016 Acura mdx qualify for Conquest? I’m looking for this deal, prefer bayarea but I can drive down to socal also.
Nice deal! Not sure what I’m doing wrong but I’m being quoted crazy money, like $3k down and 400 a month for 35 months. I’m obviously not calling the correct people or saying the correct thing.
Just about the Number 1 rule on LH is to never ask for a quote or ask for the best numbers or any other variation.
After research on here you create an offer to a dealer and send it to them!
This has been discussed hundreds of times on here and they’re all sorts of templates to use as well.
Solid, I’ve gotten around 260-280 for a family friend from a desperate midwest dealer so this in CA is excellent. Congrats and enjoy in good health.
Just download the “signed” contract sheet and shop it around. Tell them, first one to match the deal wins! That what i did. Be nice and professional.
Is dealer willing to replicate deal?
Yes. I replicate @Jon deal by using his dealsheet and shopping it around.
I was fielding calls yesterday and over the past few days. I don’t know if OP got lucky and just got them at the right time because I could not have any dealer get anywhere close to these numbers. Everyone and their mom is trying to score one of these before the rebates expire next month. After contacting around multiple dealers in the LA/OC region this is what I have concluded.
Pretty similar experience shopping for Equinoxes and Blazers last month in SoCal when the MF was better. They were happy to quote me at $8500-$12500 all day long (on loaners, no less), even with damn near every incentive available. The sales people were fine, it was the finance managers that made me irrationally angry, acting like they were cutting me such a killer deal at MSRP and I was an idiot for suggesting they lower that price.
What was the discount to the MF for the one-pay?