I’m upgrading my car and went to the dealer today and just locked in a quote after about 2 hours of waiting and negotiation. I think this is a great deal as I was paying $650/momth for 30K miles for a 2020 m340i.
Details Below:
Year, Make, Model, and Trim: 2023 BMW m340 xdrive,
Location: Devon, PA BMW of Devon
Specs:*
-Gravit/ Red Sensatec
-Premium Package
-Driver Assistance Package
-19" 791M wheels w/PRFT
-Adaptive M suspension
-Harman Kardon
-Parking Assistance
-Ambient Lighting
-Some accessories (black kidney grille, black deck lid spoiler, floating hub caps)
Beautiful color combination. I’ve got the Dravit Grey/Oyster and love it. You probably want to break down that $5100 cash into cap cost reduction, fees, taxes, etc. so they can better evaluate your deal.
It could be good or terrible depending on the breakdown of the $5100 and if you are including equity from your trade. I’d post all that, so the experts can weigh in on it. If you aren’t using equity or cap cost reduction, my non-expert opinion is it’s a good deal.
Fwiw Devon is one of my local dealers. I tried to deal with them a few times when I got my 2021 and they wouldn’t get to half the discount a broker on here was offering, so I went with the broker. Definitely check out the marketplace section here for broker deals and compare, after you figure out the full breakdown on your offer including the Das and potential equity.
Agreed. Devon is terrible to deal with. I used to try and get diesels through them when they were in the $200s and they just wouldn’t listen. Just bc the payment was low, they didn’t care about how I arrived there. Just said no that’s too cheap. But they agreed to do the discount needed to get there. Dummies…
I def concur to get a quote from a broker. Very rare to be able to match their numbers on bmw.
I love how people declare a great deal when they are totally clueless on how the payment amount came about…oh boy. OP, post a calculator link showing how you get to the 800 payment.
Here’s your calculator, bud. 10k down for $800 a month. Not good, use a broker here if you need to have this car. Keep the equity in your pocket or use towards multiple security deposits which are refundable.
Looks like a small discount when IAC can get you 7%. Also did you check out Vroom CarMax etc online to see what they give you for value on current car? Are you getting base or max MF? Looks like a bad deal to me. At least you came here before signing.
Also, have you confirmed that market value is the same as MSRP because dealers are playing games there too.
Hey thanks man! So to clarify I would only be putting 5100 out of pocket not 10k The breakdown would be 799+ 4300 + 5100… also could you kindly tell what you mean by multiple security deposits? Cheers
You are effectively putting down the near 10K including trade equity. Not a good idea on leases. If you aren’t going to put time in and really understand how leases etc work use a broker as you will get taken to cleaners.
The difference in your trade value - trade payoff is money in your pocket and you are essentially putting that on top of the 5100 due at signing.
You are getting <2% discount. Brokers are offering 4.5-7% with 0 hassle, no leg work, and without spending 2 hours at dealerships for quotes. As we say here, going to dealers is for test driving and taking delivery. All negotiations should be done remote.
I don’t think you are understanding how leasing fully works
Really not trying to be snarky, but you should focus on the mechanics of how you are getting to that payment versus just the payment and amount down.
Although you are only putting 5100 down, the discount is only 1%, meaning, the money is coming from elsewhere.
It looks like they are passing that on in equity and not in discount. Considering discounts are much higher elsewhere, you are likely able to capitalize on the equity and the higher discounts somewhere else.
