Everyone here told you it’s a bad deal but you do you. If you want to do the work use a broker here for a better deal or just overpay and drive your car
But backing out may give you leverage to get a better deal and have them do something to save it.
If this is your attitude then you probably don’t fit in here, no offense. $50/mo is not an inconsequential amount for most people that are Leasehacking. You’re essentially saying that $1,800 is not worth your time to talk to a broker about your other options? I really don’t understand this logic. This is not just a bad deal by LH standards, it’s a bad deal by any standard.
If you put your insane 11k down on that deal, you’re over $100/mo less. So in essence what you’re really saying here is that $100/mo difference, $3,600 total isn’t worth you spending 10 minutes talking to a broker.
I know it sounds like I am being harsh, because I am, because I want you to realize how ridiculous it would be for you to take this deal when you have an offer for 9% OFF MSRP on the table here, when you were almost about to take one for 0% OFF MSRP.
I really don’t understand the mindset where people ask for advice after they’ve already locked in a decision. We see that all too often here from new users.
If you can back out, back out. Otherwise, try not to think about the trade equity thrown away, and do better next time.
My thoughts are you’re wasting everyone’s time. You already have a pre-conceived notion of which direction you’re going, and you’re just going to ignore any advice to the contrary.
So if the car isn’t on the ground yet you didn’t really “sign” anything. The only thing that really matters is when you sign the actual lease and drive the car off the lot. You can walk away now if you want, they might try to play tough and threaten to keep a deposit but hard for them to enforce that.