It’s my first time leasing and I am having a hard time working back to the numbers my dealership is quoting me with the lease calculator.
MSRP - $49,995
Saving - $2,995
Rebate - $ 2000
Selling - $45,000
Tax - 3042.80 (6.25%)
Doc Fee - $150
State Fee - $16.75
Title - $33
Registration - $115.25
Road and Bridges - $20
Other - $7
Total Invoice - $48,783.80
36 month - 10,000 miles
Residual - 56%
MF - .00136
$0 down - $784
$2500 down - $708
$5000 - $633
These numbers seemed really high to me compared to what i’ve seen on the Leasehacker marketplace. I asked why the MF was .00136 versus .00086 and they said that is the base and the dealership doesnt control that.
This is what I get from plugging in the numbers, so I am having a hard time coming up with how me putting $5,000 down comes up to $633 a month. My preference would be to pay my TTL upfront if possible versus rolling it into my monthly payment.
The dealership told me this was a smoking deal and that 10% off is unheard of right now, but some reason this pricing doesnt sit well with me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
$784/mo for a $50k car… ooooof. The residual isn’t the greatest at first glance either, especially for 10k miles a year.
Did you have the chance to verify with edmunds the base MF and residual values for your term/mileage allowance?
Also, you can try searching for similar deals on that vehicle or broker listings to see where you stand in comparison.
Sent you a DM. This isn’t aggressive at all, 100% I can beat it.
I would confirm on Edmunds, but that’s def a marked up MF.
.00136 indicates tier 3 and max reserve or tier 5 and no markup.
I did look into Edmunds - It seemed that .00086 and 56 Residual is the standard. It is why I was shocked with .0136.
They’re either marking up MF or your credit qualified you for a lower tier credit. Did they tell you what tier you qualified for? Or haven’t you applied yet?
How would they know tiers yet, though? Unless OP applied early? The whole “we have no control over it” line to me is telling, but I could be wrong.
Lol dealerships will tell you anything especially if they know it’s your first time leasing. “Yeah we don’t control the MF.” Lol yeah ok…
Another piece of advice - if you don’t qualify for tier 1 (if you decide to apply) you can request them to bump you up a tier. It works sometimes and can save you some $.
You’ve double-counted the $2,000 rebate for starters.
But even at 10% pre-rebate this is going to be a garbage lease.
In TX you really need to stick to brands that have lease credits.
It’s worse than that if the numbers the OP mentioned independent of the calc are true.
I’m showing about a 2% discount and .00136
So BMW generally only allows for a .00040 mark up, which would put the max mf for tier 1 at .00126 currently. There’s really no way to get to .00136 without including a tier adjustment. They don’t generally do that without reason to.
BMW International Executive also a possibility. Defaults to standard credit tier (T3). — add max reserve, Bingo.
I may have wrote it down wrong. The Autonation quote didn’t have MF had to ask - .00126 is prob the quote.
I’m not sure why I wouldn’t qualify for the base MF with my credit score tbh. They kept asking for me to fill out a credit app before they would even negotiate the price, and when I declined, that’s when they quoted me the above and stated it’s based off me having top credit
Yes, that’s standard. If you won’t fill out an app, they quote the “best possible” deal basically. 9/10 times when you apply, it seems to be slightly higher than what you thought. I truly feel it’s just another tactic.
But it’s good to get an idea of what they’re saying the payment is with top tier credit, if it’s in the neighborhood of what you’re comfortable with, submit an app, get actual numbers and go from there. But it certainly doesn’t hurt to negotiate before applying, in fact it’s recommended you get a deal put together before you submit a hard inq.
There’s nothing wrong with the dealer marking up the mf, even in tier 1 credit. I’d take a marked up mf with a commensurate discount over buy rate any day of the week.
Depending on the state tax structure:
Higher rate but lower sale price can save on tax.
It lowers your buy out value through the life of the lease. Puts you in a better position should you ever need to buy out/sell the lease.