I’m trying to work a deal on a Highlander. The dealer sends me these numbers as a first quote. I’m not too impressed. I think I can do better, I’ve asked for a better price but they insist this is rock bottom. Anyone have thoughts on this deal? How can I get them to go a little lower?
That doesn’t seem too bad. I remember back in January I got a quote on an XLE AWD 12k miles I believe it was mid $400. They were willing to negotiate more but I wasn’t ready to get a car I was just test driving.
If you’re trying to get them to go down more then tell them what you are looking to pay. If they say no either walk away or agree on what they offered I don’t think there’s really any special way to negotiate.
I can do the $40k le awd for 350/mo if you can’t get them down lower. Your quote isn’t terrible but I can do a loaded $45k Xle in Ohio for under $400 36/10
Thanks! Do you happen to know if you can do multiple MSD’s to buy down the MF with an Ally lease? I may sell my current car to CarMax and use the profit as a security deposit on the new lease. Many of the Toyota dealers in my area are offering the lease through Ally. I’m trying to keep my payments between $275-$300 if I can.
At a different dealer, I test drove a Highlander L AWD (the base model) just last week and wasn’t ready to buy and the sales manager comes out guns a blazing ready to sell me the car. I never discussed price or anything. He’s like he can give me that car for $333 a month, $1000 down. I told him I’m not ready to buy just yet and politely left. Maybe that was a good deal but at the time I haven’t done much research on pricing.
No msds with ally. If you do msds through Tfs the payment will be about the same as ally so doesn’t really make sense to put $3000 out when you don’t have to!
Yep, I never put money down on a lease. I’ve always just done first months payment. This time around I may just pay for the taxes and fees just to get my payment where I want it to be, if that makes sense (If the selling price alone can’t get me there).
This is a solid deal. That being said, the money factor is really high. Check Edmunds to see if they’re marking it up at all. Assuming this deal is through TFS, I’d also ask the dealer to run the numbers through Ally and US Bank. From reading some posts on here, Ally may get you a better deal.