There’s a doc fee of 453.16 which includes registration and title fees.Which isn’t part of the payment. The acquisition fee was rolled into the lease but I could pay it upfront.
I tried working a deal on a CX-5 Grand Touring but the money factor was higher than I wanted and ended up about $1,6000 off what I was willing to pay. I looked at Hyundais in my local area but all models were MSRP + 1000 or more. I couldn’t get them to budge at all.
I’m trying to stay under $400/month to save money and get the vehicle I want in 3 years when everything stabilizes. I haven’t disclosed anything to dealer other than my desire to work a deal before coming in for a test ride and deal signing.
I can wait 2 more months but from the news I hear, inventories will still be tight and prices could go higher.
Most cars do not lease well. They do not have the programs (RV, MF and incentives) to be good candidates for lease-hacking, regardless of what dealer discount you can negotiate. This is truer now than it has ever been. Which means you cannot start your search with a particular car or cars in mind, and then find a way to make them lease well.
It will be like pushing a boulder uphill while pulling teeth, and you’ll still probably have a bad deal in the end. You need to start your search by filtering only the vehicles that are leasing well right now and offer good value per dollar.
Check out the “Share a Deal” and “Marketplace” sections of LH forums to decide what’s leasing well and pick a vehicle that is already proven to offer good value.
Remember, there are no magic wands that can save a deal from poor programs (RV, MF, and incentives) and/or poor discounts.
