Just getting the following deal - please let me know what you think.
Honda Passport: EX-L AWD
MSRP:39730
Total Suggested Retail Price (with dealer installed options): 40,425
1445 due at signing and 340 per month
Total term: 36 months
Total mileage 12K
Having current, accurate information for residual value, money factor, and incentives is important in understanding you deal. As such, going directly to a source that has access to that data from the captive banks is your best option. The forums at Edmunds are where we go to get that information, as they have direct access to it from the captive banks. You’ll want to post of the model specific thread for the vehicle you’re interested in and request the most current numbers for your zip code. It is often easiest to find that thread by searching Google for “Edmunds lease” followed by the model of vehicle you’re interested in.
There isn’t an irrespective of mf/rv/incentives. The current programs are crucial to determining the appropriate monthly payment for your personal situation.
Also. If you’re adding up cost, you need to include your trade equity. It’s no different than cash.
I’m not asking these questions just because I’m bored and feel like making random internet strangers run around in circles for my enjoyment. This is the information you need to properly evaluate your deal
You need to figure out if this is a worthy offer this month, where you live, which is the spirit of the other responses you’ve received.
If you’re shopping by payment, you’ve probably already lost the game.
Whatever these “options” are, you don’t want them. These are the kinds of things that are easy to bury in the deal if you ignore all of the most important components of the lease, and are only focused on the monthly.
All thank you for your help. I am sorry if I this is a stupid question though, but just curious
if at the end of the lease term i want to pay the minimum out of pocket and if my monthly payment gets me to the minimum - why would MF and other items matter as much? What I mean is - that is someone is paying 200 and I am paying 300 for the same car monthly, then I know I got a bad deal. But if someone if paying 300 (for a total of 10,800 over the term of a 3 year lease) and if I am paying 200 per month (7,200 over the term of a 3 year lease) for 12k miles - then I know I got a good deal.
Again, I do not intend to overlook the items raised here regarding knowing the details, but just trying to gauge total output and compare it to others who think they got a good deal and see if I am in the ballpark of a good deal or closer to a bad deal.
I am a novice so that is why these may be stupid questions (apologies).
What if they qualify for different incentives? What if they have different lease terms because they’re in a different region? What if they have different lease terms because it was last month? What if their tax rate is different?
Monthly payment is the output of the lease equation. Without knowing all the inputs are the same, someone else’s monthly payment is completely irrelevant.
You’re not listening. My monthly or someone else’s monthly doesn’t give you a frame of reference as to if your deal is good or not without the rest of the context. The same quality deal can be thousands of dollars of apart for two people because of timing/region/qualifications/etc.
If you want to evaluate if your deal is any good or not, the monthly payment is not the way to do it.