Hello!
Starting my lease negotiations. Is this realistic? I’m in SoCal.
Also, first time on this forum.
With Max MSDs, you’re payment drops to $750. However, you need to find a realistic pre-incentive discount- 15% is very unlikely.
Have you verified buy rate MF and appropriate regional incentives? Your calculator is off as Audi FS is picking up 1st month payment until March 1 and on $83k vehicle, you’re govt fees will be ~ $700…
If you read the forum, you should be talking to @Samaudibh and @DonnyAudi if you want an aggressive easy to do, up-front deal. Time is $.
Take a look at some of the broker’s too.
It is practically impossible for us to tell you what a “good” monthly payment is for your specific lease as lease programs are highly dependent on region, personal qualifications, tax rates, etc.
We always recommend the following method before you ever contact a dealership. If you do all of the work up front, you’ll have a stress free dealer experience and set yourself for success.
- Read Leasing 101 (Blog | LEASEHACKR) to understand how to calculate a lease payment and the variables. Monthly payment is an output, not an input!!
- Pick a specific vehicle that you want to target
- Gather the current MF, RV and incentives from Edmunds forums for your zip code
- Research the LH marketplace and other deals that have been made recently on your vehicle - what was their pre-incentive discount? How did their lease terms differ?
- Plug your numbers into the LH calculator, and use a pre-incentive discount similar to what you have seen
- Create a target deal, this is what you’re trying to negotiate to. You can try different terms, selling price discount, etc. and see how your monthly payment is affected. It is also possible that different trims of your vehicle may have different MF and RV (i.e. this is very common with GM), so make sure that you look into that. Come up with a set of inputs that give you the output that you want - your desired monthly payment.
With a target price determined, you now have a deal to pursue and compare dealer offers against. More importantly, you have a solid foundation to work from.
Not sure what you mean by push 53%?
In any event Audi Care is 100% optional with a real price/benefit and should not be lumped in with the dealer add-on BS eco block / key protection when you’re running your analysis. The dealer may not be able to ‘remove’ the $995 but you can certainly push for an additional $995 discount to offset.
How does this deal compare with your target deal as mentioned above?
Saying this for your own good. You are probably going to get destroyed in the finance office if you say stuff like “I want to negotiate to 53% RV”
Nobody smells blood in the water like a lethal F&I manager
The best place to get started is:
Please read links in there such as “how to calculate payments” and other helpful articles.
It might seem like a lot but TBH there are fewer <60 minute exercises which will save you so much time, money and anxiety over your driving lifetime.
It may also save you (after your negotiations with LH input) inside the finance office where no one can from the internet can really help you.
Remember, it’s almost impossible to reverse-engineer the math starting from the output (monthly payment) and figure out if it’s a good deal. Start at the beginning.
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