I’m waiting on an itemized quote sheet. I am aware of all the relevant figures and fees. Negotiate the price before disc. and incentives. know your MF/Res and all the other stuff.
My Total Cost: I expected to pay 1st months and that’s it. It looks like my Incentive was used for the “payment assistance” but I honestly thought it was worked into the discount due to it being 13.52% off. Can’t be both places, right? Didn’t compute and that’s why I’m waiting on the itemized info.
At the end of the day I know all the math and how to calculate leases. (Takes a while though.) I know what to watch out for and what to ask for but I’m no expert by any means. Getting a second opinion or 30 is perfectly fine. I always think there might be more blood to squeeze from the turnip. I know there is more discount there but the dealers are standing firmer of course. The dealers know they will probably get someone who will pay it. But I usually know when to stop, mostly. This isn’t my only option and I’m exploring other cars too or as much as the inventory allows. I’m also spurred on by the $3- 4K in equity I’m about to gain from selling my current Lexus lease. I’m having to special order (Lexus) and it might take 3-4 months and not sure how improved the market will become. Hopefully better.
But the bottom line is I’m pretty sure this is a good deal. The comparison deals i’ve reviewed along with competing price quotes. The research, the market, the math, not to mention the low inventory of this color and package.(in my area) I’ve checked 5 dealers and each only had 1 MSM color with Adv. Pkg. and AWD. Any payments that I’ve seen lower than $495 had trade equity and high DAS/OOP. So based on all of THAT…
2021 Acura TLX SH-AWD Advance.
-$0 DAS
-$2500 Conquest
$495.36/month 36/7.5k
MRSP: $49,325
Selling Price:$42.657.27?
Residual: $29,101.75 59%
MF .00052
My Total Cost:
$17337.60
Don’t base anything on that. Different people in different states have different lease programs due to different taxes, regional incentives, etc. Comparing pre-incentive discounts against others is great. Comparing monthly payments can be very misleading. Someone with a better deal may have a higher monthly payment than you because of these differences, etc.
How do the numbers compare to the target you put together before talking to dealers? Does your calculator based on the deal you think you’re getting match with the monthly/das from their offer? Have you confirmed mf/rv/incentives with edmunds? Acura loves to do direct to dealer incentives that should be properly accounted for in your calculator/target deal that wouldn’t show up on a dealer offer sheet.
That part was more facetious considering the tone of my post. And yes the 3 example deals/quotes I based that comment on were almost identical Make, model trim and years. 2 were similar in structure and one was VA. Yes, I took into meticulous consideration each residual point based on mileage differences in order to adjust up or down accordingly I checked each deals MF and each one’s credit profile to ensure that I adjusted my comparisons to keep them on par based on Tier 1,2,or 3. Then I reconfirmed who qualified for which incentive and how it was applied on their deal. I actually just about 2 hours ago submitted a request on the Acura forum on Edmunds specific to the 21 TLX in deals and questions section regarding the Factory to Dealer incentive that I discovered but like many incentives only applies in certain geographical areas. I have not checked yet to see if the forums have responded to my request to find out if the $1500 Factory to Dealer incentive is active/available in my area for me to even bring it up to my acura dealer. If you looked even remotely at the quote sheet I think you can about guess how far I’ve gotten in my quest for more precise information from the dealer. So yes, I have developed my own targets with said data that I do have and just ever so briefly browsed other examples as a vague comparison as opposed to a concrete basis to work with so that I could primarily gauge if the market was supporting what I believed it was versus what former expectations might have given us/ Just hoping I wasn’t $1000’s and $1,000’s apart. So yeah, I checked a little!
Not out of my pocket. It was clearly discussed 3 times how I wanted the lease structured. It most likely is that the rebate is being used for the first months and other “down payment” that just so conveniently adds up to exactly $2500. I was surprised by the high discount but when I plug the numbers and adjust his creative maneuvering I get it to add up. It even shows in the box $0 Drive off and $495.36. / 36 months and that was an agreed number but I am still waiting on an itemized list.
That’s ok. I appreciate the attempt. Your listing and calculator are what I started this whole process with as I was trying to find a local dealer that could beat your deal. So far they haven’t and I was going to reach out to see with broker fees and so on if it would be enough. After the tax adjustment to 6% and hitting the "Zero Drive-off " button I get $467. Your MSRP was $500 more but the savings was only $1008. So the broker fee and extra MSRP kills that dream!
If you’ve done much research around here, you’d see there is essentially no reason for you to even have a dealer quote sheet, much less be reaching out to the dealer for more information.
The point in starting with confirming information from Edmunds is so that you have the current lease programs independently confirmed for establishing your target pricing before ever talking to a dealer. Talking to dealers is for finding someone to do your target deal, not for figuring out what something should cost.
At this point, you should have a target calculator put together that you can compare this offer to (or better yet, you would just be making the dealership an offer and not let them set the baseline by which all is compared). Don’t let them drive the bus.
Yes, clarification on how he arrived at his calculations. Not a fact finding mission to give justification to my numbers. You are making so many assumptions and it’s possible due to my lack of sleep I may not be articulating as I probably should. As I am not a dealer or seasoned car salesman or even someone who has leased for years and years. While your intent may have been to educate or provide insight i see that this has turned into something else. There are many challenging and nuanced elements of leasing and working with dealers.
Some of us mere mortals might have to take a few extra steps or work a little harder and think a little longer in order to arrive at the same obvious conclusions that I’m sure just manifest so easily for you. We also may not precisely communicate every damn detail that has been put into the process as we didn’t think we would be getting lectured for what? Do you think this helped? Tone down the brow-beating and condescension. It’s not helpful or productive and certainly taints any helpful advice that I am sure you’ve given today.
Stick to the purpose of the post and check for any irregularities or provide input if you choose. I didn’t ask for your guidance or even advice. I just needed additional information on elements of my post that needed it. I got that from leasecompanion and the guy who corroborated how the rebate was applied similarly to mine. The rest was just filler and noise. Take a break you deserve it.
If you think a message board is tough, go into the finance office unprepared (which you are) and see how that goes. And if you’re comfortable with the deal you have, take it.
Why is it that people feel the need to unnecessarily provide unsolicited, unfounded, and rude opinions. Oh wait, I know. I think I should stop talking because I am inadvertently feeding the trolls.
You’re asking for feedback on a deal, and I asked the questions necessary to appropriately evaluate that. Without the established baseline data (confirmed rv/mf/incentives, which you stated you have not yet received), you’re missing critical information to validate the deal.
The dealer isn’t the source of that information. You need to independently verify it from a source that doesn’t have a vested interest in providing you incomplete data(primarily marked up mfs or incentives that are rolled into a selling price).
That is why I asked you those questions in the first place.
If you want to validate his calculations, what you need to do is to independently verify the lease programs and then put together a calculator using that information and the deal that you think you have. If the output of that calculator is consistent with the information from the dealer, you have your answer. Comparing against other deals doesn’t answer that question.
You’re not seeing the forest through the trees and rather than take pointed questions meant to get you to the answers you’re seeking, you’re taking them as personal attacks.
Probably the same reason people, who admit they aren’t proficient at leasing, ask for feedback with incomplete details and don’t seem to want the feedback they asked for.
13.5% pre incentive ? That’s pretty strong. Did you run the calculator to match up numbers?
Finally, did you look at the A Spec? (And all other TLX trims) I believe the A Spec has a better residual. If they’re willing to discount the same on a A Spec model, could be much better.
If everything pans out (base MF, no adds,etc), I’d jump on a 13.5% pre incentive discount
I don’t think it’s a great deal for a number of reasons. I hope you read the advice given here, verify all of the numbers, and consider other options.
I was typing something in more detail but it seems OP doesn’t actually want feedback. For the record, the “Trusted Hackr” title is earned by people who are recognized for contributing to the community i.e. by providing information and answering questions. What exactly is the thought process behind asking for help then questioning every bit of feedback given? Are you here to verify whether your deal is good or for self-gratification (to what end)?
