2020 VW Tiguan SE

Hi all,

First timer here so thank you very much. This site and your intel is extremely helpful and quite cathartic! My wife and I are in the market for a car. She really liked the Audi Q3 and that turned us on to our search, but the Audi is a bit out of our price range.

We are now fully involved around the 2020 Tiguan SE. Got a chance to take a test drive yesterday. Very nice ride.

Got a few offers from some dealers. Our number is $350 taxes included and $0 down, but some dealers are really having a hard time hitting that.

I have gotten three offers with taxes rolled in, below:
$377–39 months, 10k miles
$366–39 mo this, 7,500 miles
$350–39 months, 7,500 miles

The catch is I still need to pay bank fees and dealer fees and DMV with this, plus first month.

How can I get to $350 a month (or below) taxes included?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Welcome

It looks like you just asked them for lease quotes, which is a shortcut to a terrible deal for you.

You can either structure the deal and propose to them, or start by negotiating the pre-incentive sales price, getting the residual/mf/incentives from edmunds for your zip and these terms, and calculating what the payment should be (I’m sure you’ve seen the fancy calculator we have here).

Or check the marketplace for deals on Tiguans. Or consider hiring a broker.

To evaluate these deals properly, we would need lease break down sheets that show the pre-incentive sales price, incentives, taxes and fees, everything broken out. If you get that for these we can evaluate.

Thank you so much @jeisensc this is very helpful. First question—why is asking for lease options a start to a terrible deal?

Also—please see below. All I have thus far from a dealer.

That photo is pertaining to the $366 per month.

I also have the below from another dealer, but probably doesn’t help much.

Payment shoppers are signaling they either don’t know or care about the underlying details of a lease. How you get to the payment has several variables.

For instance, if you didn’t know a car with a 30k MSRP also had 6k in incentives, you’d think 24k/20% off was a good deal. The dealer didn’t take a nickel out of their pocket to get to that number.

And if you don’t know how much the money factor is, you not only don’t know how much interest/rent you are paying, or more importantly if the dealership is marking it up just because they can.

You are missing some details here. Maybe spend a few minutes searching through signed Tiguan deals from the past few months will help you see and better understand all the numbers.

Appreciate it. Will look through the site for any signed deals to help me.

What am I missing that could help? Want to go back to the dealers and ask or know for future when I discuss w other dealers.

What is best way to open a conversation with a dealer?

I’m on the same boat. Same car. I asked 2 brokers and they gave me prices around 355 dollars with taxes and aquisition fees.
Both brokers gave me similar numbers, but I have really not dig into detail. That was before I found Leasehackr website.

Sorry, just noticed. I was looking for VW Tiguan S not SE.

Please avail yourself of the search function.

Most important see

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@BJ_Wallens you should really be able to get the S for at or close to $300, FYI. From what I’ve seen!

@jeisensc going to study these now and don’t mean to waste your or anyone else time! Preparing to respond to emails like the below from sales reps!

“We do however have black on black Tiguan SE 4-motion in stock equipped with the panoramic sunroof. MSRP $31,144 and we can offer this car for $337.26/mo with $1919 total due including taxes and fees 39mo 7500mi/year.”

@Bubs2020, @BJ_Wallens,

Here’s my advice to you at the beginning of your leasehackr journey:

Stop talking to dealers. All those emails you sent out? Delete them. Delete the email address from your address book. Unplug your wifi.

Spend a long while reading through the leasing 101 articles on here. Take it all in, except the one that talks about the 1% rule. Forget you ever saw that one.

Once you have that down, pick a vehicle or two you’re interested in, gather the RV/MF/incentive information from Edmunds and research comparable deals on here to develop a target pre-incentive discount for each vehicle.

Take those numbers and determine what your target deal is for each vehicle.

Then, and only then, think about reaching out to dealers to find one that will do your target deal.

Talking to the dealer is for finding someone to do your deal. It is not for finding out what the car might cost. If you don’t already know exactly what the numbers should be before you reach out, you’ll just spin your wheels with crappy offers.

Further, I’ve never personally seen the point in asking a dealer how much they want you to pay. I’d much rather tell them how much I want to pay and let them decide if the deal is for them. By shooting for an aggressive deal, you’re essentially asking the dealer to make a very minimal amount of money on the deal. You’ll have much better luck if you also ask them to do a very minimal amount of work to get there. That means no back and forth trying to find out info, asking questions, trying to get to where you want.

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@mllcb42 thanks so much. Greatly appreciate this. Why do you recommend not looking at the 1% rule at this time?

Doing my research on Edmunds right now. Will try to share all of that as I find it.

Would it help if I get MSRP and dealer prices from each as well?

1% is a useless metric for if a deal is good or not. Some vehicles are unbelievably good deals at 1%, some are absolutely horrible. Sometimes, with two people, depending on region and incentives, 1% is an amazing deal for one and a horrible deal for the other, on the same vehicle. It’s best to just ignore and actually analyze the deal.

You’ll need the MSRP of the specific vehicle you’re trying to build up a target price on.

Also, keep in mind that when we say “go to edmunds for that info”, what we’re saying is “go ask on the edmunds vehicle specific lease thread”, not “go find something on their generic website”.

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39 month leases are manufacturer/dealer traps. Got to pay for a fourth year of DMV registrations and that gets expensive.

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This is very state dependent. Places like California make it hurt… a lot. Some other states… not so much.

Let me start with below quote from RODO isn’t reliable - see RODO review thread.
But looks like it’s possible to get YOUR number. That is by no means known of the deal is good or bad.
For one this I see this particular quote quote has $1k worth of fluff.
My guess from afar with some work using sources quote above you may get to what you are looking for but you would need to expand your search area.

Fluff