Don’t send them the calculator. You simply send them the deal structure you are asking for. The calculator is used to figure out if your ask is even reasonable.
Update your title to include the vehicle you’re looking at.
The most important thing you need to make sure of is that you’re apples to apples. When I got the first worksheet from an offer, the numbers were higher than I expected. They added a few things I didn’t ask for, like GAP insurance, and ‘my’ figures didn’t include the cost of GAP so of course my figs were lower. So make sure all the fees and costs in their worksheet is the same as yours, which should match what you are willing to pay for/negotiate to etc.
I’ve rarely seen the numbers from calculators match what the dealer offers but the best that you can do is get them as close as possible by doing the above.
Maybe others can chime in with what a reasonable difference should be between one’s calculations and an offer one has received but I would likely hesitate going forward with a deal if their numbers were more than $25 higher than mine. I’d really want to know where the difference is coming from but it’s hard to figure out sometimes.
Yeah for some reason i don’t know if it’s something common but everytime I ask for a quote or deal I get the same responses. Either they say the best we can do is on the website. Or they just throw out a monthly payment number.
Here on the east coast it is getting very hard to find any half-decent 2020’s left in stock and dealers that have the good ones aren’t giving them very much, if any, dealer discount.
I went for a 2021 instead and wound up at $450/mo on a 50k Big Horn.
