Obviously much better but that’s scary if the dealer made that big of an “error” and you had to be the one to catch it. That honestly sounds a bit like a slime ball move, did no sales manager look at that before he sent it?
I had a dealer once magically add $1000 extra DAS into the final paperwork after the deal had been approved and hoped I wouldn’t notice.
If you’re happy with the deal that might be as much of a discount as you can get in the region this month or within a couple of bucks. Have you tried also contacting another dealer for a comparison bid? These guys sound like jerks you may be better off using them as a baseline and trying to find another dealer.
I agree about that big of a “mistake” seeming shady. The other thing was he slipped the $720 lease cash into the selling price when I wanted the price without incentives. I still need to get the 720 off the selling price we agreed to.
I feel good about a $424ish lease payment for this car (with only fees DAS). Plus Mazda will pay the first payment. I can get the cargo carpet and cover with that.
Turns out they are the only ones that have the car in the trim/color/etc that I want. If this fell/falls through I’ll need to wait.
And he is the internet sales manager.
Won’t budge on the 720 saying he did not need to disclose it. I call bs:
" I understand. The incentive is a dealer incentive, not a customer incentive…Mazda pays this to allow us to sell at such a low price. They do not advertise this to customers…I have been trying to make this simple and have offered up everything to you.
I cannot reduce by an additional $720, unfortunately."
He doesn’t need to disclose it and you don’t need to do business with him. If he won’t do the deal you want, move on.
As an aside, a CX-9 GT FWD isn’t worth $475/mo. I had a CX-9 GT AWD and it wasn’t worth the ~$400 /mo I was paying for it.
I’m hiring a broker. Unfortunately this is the car I want. No others within 250 mi. I’m just done with his bs.
It’s on you to know that direct-to-dealer monies are almost always already included in the discount.
I understand you want to strip it out for the purpose of calculating the actual discount.
But that doesn’t mean you’re going to get that $720 twice… once when it was included by default and an another time just because you asked about it.
Understood. Anything about that worksheet other than he didn’t check the box for Acquisition Fee to be part of DAS seems off? Payment is way too high for me to consider.
Move on to something else. A Pilot for less or a Palisade.
I think you’re at the point where you need to decide are you really going to pass or go based on the $720?
Paying a broker to get this specific car for you probably isn’t going to work. If a broker can get that exact stock number from the dealer that’s great, but it sounds like you don’t have much stock in your region.
$720 off the cost of the car is only going to change your monthly by like $10, is that worth it?
I just want to get the best deal that is possible giving the current market situation and that this is the only car right now. I’d go for it if the worksheet reflected the correct terms. Too many mistakes made by this guy. Help with this is greatly appreciated.
Terms I want: 36/10k, .00015 MF, 59%, DAS just fees and first month, Mazda picking up first month.
I’m coming up with $444 w/ tax.
All because you want red right?
The screenshot you shared already shows everything you need: 36/10K, .00015, and 59% residual. The first payment credit is already applied:
Initial Payment of $1,157.09 - First Payment Credit of $474.33 = $682.76 due at signing
If you want $444 with tax, then add a cap cost reduction of about $1,000.
Plugged in the numbers into calculator:
I structured “DAS just fees and first month, Mazda picking up first month” and got basically the same numbers as the dealer. Just subtract the first month’s payment from the drive-off.
I separated the dealer cash as untaxed incentive and added the add-ons to the selling price. Effectively, 4.9% off MSRP with this deal.
Haha! Yes Ed. All because I want red. 
Did he include all the fees due at signing? Acquisition, DMV, doc?
The advertised sale price is $40,769. He’s giving me the $500 July 4th reduction. $40,269. He reduced the price by $395 to account for the scothguard. $39,874. Adding it back in as an after market we’re back to $40,269. <— selling price. How does he get $40,989?
They capitalized the acquisition fee, DMV fee, and doc fees, but the cash due at signing equates to DMV fees + doc fees. Depending on the desking software used, that’s how it’s done. But nothing incorrect or shady here.
You could try to shop around for a bigger discount off MSRP. There’s another ~$10 per month before it’s a loss for the dealer (including holdback).
I separated the $720 dealer cash as an untaxed incentive for illustration purposes.
As a Liverpool FC fan, Red is fine by me ;).