2020 Maxima "Deal"

Hi, Im new here and hope I post the relevant info to find out if this is a good deal.
2020 Nissan Maxima

MSRP: $40,905.
Sale price: $37,699.55
Monthly Payment: $336.41
Due at signing: I’ll have to get this info
Months: 48
Miles: 12k
MF: .00033
Residual: 42
Rebate: $3,750.
Region: CT

I’ll be putting $5000 down because I want to lower my monthly payments.

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very bad idea putting 5k down. god forbid you total it the next week you won’t see that 5k . First month and DMV is the most I would put down. that being said 5k over 48 months plus 336 makes it 440 a month. That’s not good at all. the sale price is not even including the whole rebate. Work the MSRP down separate from the rebate.

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Yeah, the sales guy explained that exact same thing to me. The reason I wanted to put down that amount was to get my monthly payments down. I’m still new to the process so please forgive the stupid questions.

Could you explain what it means when you say - “sale price is not even including the whole rebate”? And also how would I go about working the MSRP down?

Thank you and sorry for the questions.

If the payments with zero DAS are too high you’re shopping the wrong car.



48 months lease could be an issue too.


On top of what the other guys here said about the $5k down behind a bad idea, I would not suggest leasing this car for 48 months as you’ll potentially be driving a full year of it out of warranty.

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Thanks for the replies. Apart from the money down and the 48 months, is there anything I could to to try and make this work or should I just abort altogether?

Well you could post on Edmunds for the residual, MF, and Incentives on this year/make/model for 2/3/4 years, plug them all in the calculator, and see what the numbers look like.

Could not agree more: $0 due at signing and 36 months or less.

If the Maxima doesn’t lease well, are you open to other cars?

Sure I’m open. I had the Maxima, Accord sport, and Subaru Crosstrek as the 3 cars I was looking at.

These are all very different type of cars. What kind of pricing have you received on the Accord? (Spoiler alert - Hondas don’t lease well). Have you looked at the TLX? Acura usually throws a lot of lease cash at it, given its not-so great residual value and high money factor.

If I were in your shoes, I would keep doing research on all these cars and pick a car that fits your budget but that you will also enjoy driving for the next 24 to 36 months. Do not do a 42 month lease.

Another suggestion - If you have $5k to put down, why not just finance a Honda Accord and then sell it/trade it in after 3 years if you want a new car?

Good luck.

Lease an infiniti is you want a Nissan.

5K down see below :arrow_double_down::arrow_double_down::arrow_double_down:

I think you should sign this deal because the positives outweigh the negatives.


  1. You get to drive a Maxima with that glorious JATCO CVT. Moan & whine included!
  2. Salesman will be able to buy a new boat. Likely a yacht.
  3. We’ll get new material for the ‘Worst Leases You’ve Seen’ section.
  4. You’ll no longer have to worry about having an extra 5k in your bank account.


  1. For the next 48 months you’ll be kicking yourself for not hiring a broker.

In all seriousness as everyone has pointed out it’s a really bad deal. I think the best thing a first timer can do is hire a broker. The money you’ll save will far exceed their fee and they’ll also save you LOTS of time and aggravation. Once the newness of the car wears off few things feel better than knowing you got a really good deal. You can find brokers in the sections Marketplace and/or in Dealer & Broker reviews. Good luck!

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There’s many brokers that don’t charge a fee and are compensated by the dealership.

Could have easily had a car dropped off at my doorstep through any number of my lease brokers without paying any broker fee.

I think you should really just look around and see what your other options are. $336 a month with $5,000 due at signing is not a great deal, I put 2.5K total due at signing and am paying 347 a month for a 64,000 BMW.

The maxima is not a bad ride, but for 5K down and to still have your payment as high as 336 a month there are better options.

If you think you’re not paying a broker fee then you’re naive.

It’s called dealership compensation.


actually anyone in the real world who has any idea of what they’re doing in this business (i.e. not someone whose job it is to provide a phone # and send people to the store), does not charge a “broker fee”. the concept of it is a joke.

that said to OP, grab anything but a maxima if you want a nissan. grab a murano, rogue, etc. you’ll save a ton of money. I’m happy to help on them. anyone who has ever asked for a maxima wound up getting a q50 instead.

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Are we in concensus about the whole broker fee concept?

Seems like we’re on the same page aronchi.

Big boys don’t charge broker fees right lol

@aronchi @LouieBaLLz

Aronchi high five brother