The dealer says they’re all in on that jeep and $35450 is the best they can do. It looks like they’re just trying to break even on it but not lose money on a Wrangler. Via leasehackr I’m looking at $478 monthly w/ no money down. I can afford this but wanted to see other ways to bring the monthly down. I’m willing to do 10k/36m lease as I don’t really use alot of miles.
Dealer doesn’t know this yet but I plan on trading in my lease on a 2018 Civic LX ending in April 2020. Mileage is 15k out of 24k. I got my Civic appraised by CarMax and they are quoting me $1150 equity. I would like to use this to cover most of my drive off fees.
Overall you think this is a good deal? Any other angles I’m missing? Should I wait out on a better deal as I still have 1 month left on my current lease?
All my negotiations have been over the phone. My 1st offer was 11% off MSRP. They countered with 4.4% off ($35450). I then counter offered 9% but got the same 4.4%. They made it clear this was gonna be my best offer and they would understand if I didn’t accept and went to another dealer lol. I tried the only other dealership that had the trim I was looking for but they didn’t even budge off their MSRP ($35450) and were pretty condensing over the phone as I tried to negotiate down the price.
If the financials are more important to you then the car, this is an easy walk. I don’t know what market you’re in? But I would look out of state w/shipping to you. If you like the car enough to pay what they ask, then get it; but remember, that’s exactly what they are banking on with you or someone else.
While I can afford what they are offering I do find the financials more important than the car. The car is exactly what I am looking for but I have time on my side as my current lease isn’t up till the end of march. I’m not sure what you mean by which market I’m in? I’m going to be using this as a daily driver for my business.
I asked a mutual friend who’s a car salesmen. He told me “my 1st offer of 11% off MSRP is a stripped out deal that loses money on the front and makes no money on the back either. So, they offered me a break even deal instead, and that means they’re willing to sell it and make nothing on the sale.”
So assuming he is right, the only way I’ll find a better deal on this specific trim is out of state?
I see where you’re coming from. And this was part of my conversation earlier on a different thread—
They aren’t offering you a break-even deal. Let’s assume they are moving this particular car at cost. They are likely being incentivized on the back end with some hold back from the manufacturer, or looking to hit a bonus at the end of the month.
From my experience with Jeep, dealers usually don’t do much with wranglers in the way of bigger discounts. The model is a popular one. That said, better deals do exist then the one you’re contemplating now.
You’re shopping in CA, right? That’s your market. I suggest searching inventory in neighboring states first if you feel like driving, or it will also be a quick, cheap transport if you have it shipped. Take a look at different inventory dealer to dealer and make a list of different cars you like. Then contact the sales manager directly, usually by email or phone if you’re a good talker, and tell him you’re an out of state customer, you’re in the market for a jeep, he has one in inventory you like, and you wanted to save time by speaking to him directly to see if he’s interested in giving you the numbers you need. Bypass the dealer on-floor salesman and internet sales team at all costs. They will just get in the way and usually make it harder to make a deal. The sales manager May assign a salesman to help complete the deal, but the numbers should be discussed directly with him.
There is some nuance to this that normally takes some time to get good at. But if you’re a smart guy and a good talker, you can get it done by being honest and forthcoming with the dealer GSM.
You can also save yourself some time and higher a broker here who (if good) should pay for themselves with the deal they get you…
2020 2dr Wrangler Black/Tan Edition
-Technology Package
-LED Package
Lease: 10k/36m
MSRP: $36185
Sale Price: $33169.87
RV: 61%
MF: .00207
Monthly: $379.45 ($415.50 w/ tax
0 to drive off w/ $1500 equity on trade in
From the first call I told him I want 9% off the MSRP and told me that would be difficult but will give me a call back. He brought up if I was in the car business since I knew the lingo but told him I just did my research. He calls back and offers me monthly payment of $415.50 w/ tax. The weird thing is that he wouldn’t give me a straight answer of the Cap Cost with the monthly rate he was offering. He said he would only tell me if I came in to the dealership and talked. Now I’m gonna go to the dealer in the morning and try and negotiate for under $400 monthly w/ tax. I’m sure that he inflated some number to get to $415.50 rather then a lower Cap Cost so I will probably have to negotiate out of that. I understand I should only focus on the Cap Cost of the car so any tips for how I should go in this next step of negotiating?
Advertising this Jeep $27656 but you have to add in probably the $1500 destination and $3000 rebates you may not qualify for. Although youre still at an almost $5000 off which is around 32300 for the Jeep which is what youre trying to be at.
Just stick to your guns and email the dealers. Find the Jeep you want on their site and put an inquiry with the numbers you want.
So with the monthly $415.50 (w/ tax) I was told the adjusted Cap Cost is $33169.87 (Now edited in past post). I’m plugging in these numbers into the leasehackr calculator and I can’t figure out how they got that monthly $415.50. The only way I can get close to their number is if I plug my $1500 trade in equity as a down payment but I was told the monthly $415.50 came with 0 money down and $1500 equity would go towards drive off fees so nothing due at signing. Am I missing something here?
Ah okay I was assuming that if they put the equity towards the cap cost reduction they can surprise me at signing with new fees even thought they said 0 drive off. It doesn’t matter because the fees are usually rolled into the cap cost? I thought any fee’s should be paid up front and not rolled into cap cost. Sorry I’m a noob
See above my post above, if you push hard to get the price lower from other dealers that may require a little road trip then you could lower that even more.
But if youre fine with the deal for $415 then go for it, a deals only good for the person whos paying for it.
Id have to see the numbers sheet, because i cant get to your numbers either. Not sure if they’re giving you a rebate or not including first months payment, etc?
