2019 Stinger AWD base

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Hello hackrs

My 2017 Optima lease is up this month so I was at the dealer to see what they had. Atrocious offers. My 2017 EX base was $223 a month. Same car in 2019, $340 a month. He said interest rates have gone up. I take everything he says with a grain of salt, which is why I’m here.

Anyway he (or Kia) doesn’t like to separate fees and title etc, they just say ‘its all in your down payment, its all mixed together’. but for sure the taxes are in the payments. It’s Iowa.

He looked at my Optima and because it only has 11k miles and it’s flawless, he said they’ll buy it out plus $1700 on top. If I still put $2000 cash down plus my optima he’ll get me a base EX again for 223/month. A premium EX for $297/month. i know that’s not good but those are the numbers this time.

Then he stares at the ceiling for a second and says wait here. He goes and brings back a 2019 stinger awd base. He said it sits there because everyone wants a moonroof and I’m the only guy who ever comes in and doesn’t care about moonroofs.

It’s MSRP is 37k. With discounts, kia lease incentives, $2k cash, plus my optima, he said he can get me $297 a month, just like the optima ex with premium package.

I know 297 beats the 1 percent rule against the MSRP, however since I’m not sure how much of the down payment im giving him is cap reduction and how much is fees, these are all the numbers I can give you today.

So off the tops of your heads, am i getting a somewhat decent deal?

If not, the GMC Terrain SEL deal $281/month (29k msrp, 0 down, fees and title paid up front, front drive, non-gm lease incentive, supplier discount) is my next best option locally.

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Lots of things going on here, very difficult to give any solid feedback without detailed numbers…I recommend you simplify and streamline what you’re doing.

Don’t put anything down. Have every dealer quote you first month payment due at signing to make all quotes apples to apples, then structure it however you want after that. I don’t know what kind of BS your sales guy was trying to explain, but you can structure a lease deal however you want.

Stingers and Optimas and Terrains are all vastly different vehicles. Which one do you want? Always best to shop for the best deal on the car you want, otherwise it becomes very overwhelming. Unless a car is 100% just a point A-B appliance to you, in which case get a 2005 Honda Civic and be done with it.

You need to get actual values for your current Optima instead of just taking the salesman’s word for it. Vroom, Carvana, Carmax, KBB etc. You may have much more positive equity.

You may also want to consider alternatives such as taking over a lease with very few miles remaining or a CPO vehicle if you’re only driving 5.5k miles per year. Leasing loses attractiveness for very low and very high mileage drivers. Yeah, you’re only paying $223 a month, but if you put zero down your lease cost has been $0.486 per mile for your 11k miles - that’s actually not good at all and is very high for a midsize sedan. For reference, my fiancee is driving a 2018 Terrain SLT (FULLY LOADED lol…) for $0.262 per mile, and I didn’t even think it was a ‘great’ deal. SIGNED 2019 GMC Terrain SLT - Michigan $262/mo $262DAS 36/12k

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Maybe a stupid question on my part, but did you state if you’re doing 24 or 36 mo lease? Or the number of miles you’re purchasing?

If you really drive that few miles, what about getting a used car in good condition w/ fairly poor resale value and then selling it in 2-3 yrs?

The Stinger deal seems decent (assuming 36 mos and that all $2000 cash is going to cap reduction, which it probably isn’t), but that’s only b/c Stinger don’t lease well, and the deal is relatively good for a car w/ poor RV.

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Or hold on to it longer. You can buy a “wrap” that extends the 10/100 power train warranty on Kia to bumper to bumper

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This is for 24 months.

The buyout on my optima is 16,300, when we looked it up on kbb trade in was around 17k and private sale could be up to 19k. hes offering 18k.

Part of the reason I drove so few miles was because our winters are bad, the optima ended up doing very poorly in the snow and i ended up driving my old highlander both winters. otherwise, if the optima had been AWD i would have quite a bit more miles on it. The actual lease was for 12k miles.

I never really had a vehicle in mind. I figured getting the best lease deals (i started looking right after the Cruze lease deals were done, i missed it) no matter what the vehicle was, was better than saying i want this car and then trying to make a good lease out of it. Which is why i’m tempted with the latest Tacoma deals even though I would have to fly 900 miles to go get it. If this stinger awd lease is considered ‘acceptable’ i definitely could enjoy driving it for 2 years considering i enjoyed the test drive.

when i say ill drive almost anything, it needs to be the size of the optima or bigger. No civics or corollas or fortes.

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You probably won’t find a better deal than buying out and driving your current Optima into the ground, if you really like it.

No unicorn deals like $59 Cruzes recently.

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Dedicated winter tires would solve your problems if you decided to buy it out.

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Was about to post the exact same thing, but thought it wouldn’t sound great coming from a poster from LA… :wink:

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when i use the lease calculator, and it populates the acquisition fees itself, 400 for gov fees, and my dealers 140 doc fee, it looks like 2600 of the 3700 id put down is going for cap reduction.

its msrp is 37000 but on the window it said ‘lease special 29000’, then later he showed me a sheet that had it down to 27000 but then it became a little unclear if that was with my optima equity in there.

im texting him to try and get more clarification.

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If you want awd consider an outgoing 3 series. Less tdas & less monthly than your Kias
https://forum.leasehackr.com/t/signed-2018-bmw-328d-xdrive-msrp-55-610-1-275-das-7-msds-250-month-24-10k/127809

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Let’s get this straight because there’s always confusion about it, money down to pay fees or cap cost reduction is the same. The only difference is that if the fees are rolled in, they typical get taxed, where if they are paid up front they aren’t taxed, the savings are minimal. It’s always best to put minimal down, first payment or nothing.

In fact when I use to desk deals I always quoted the payment with acq fee rolled in and $2k das, once we agreed to a payment, I’d switch it to being paid upfront then up the price or MF to match the payment.

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Oh, that’s dirty. :slight_smile:

I’ll be sure to look out for such backdoor shenanigans on all my deals going forward.

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I had all sorts of tricks, the “roll payment” feature is a managers favorite. The key was to only talk payment and not show them the final numbers until you were done fudging them.

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Aren’t the BMW incentives done?

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Tacoma will ride so differently from Stinger:)
You really need to be sure to want it:)

As for lease - is this the only dealership around? Is it possible to get via email/phone/text quotes to compare and without trade in? Easier to compare and less room to fudge numbers.

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What state does this happen in? NJ sure as hell is getting their taxes one way or the other. You sure you don’t mean to say you won’t pay INTEREST if you pay up front?

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As suggested earlier, see what vroom and carvana would buy your car for before you do anything else.

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Usually the acq fee, title/plates aren’t taxed, doc fee yes, unless you roll them in and the tax is based on the monthly

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Only thing not taxed in NJ is DMV.

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Jerks :rage::money_with_wings: :moneybag::moneybag:

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