I’m new to the forum and impressed with some of the Macan deals I’ve seen on here in the last few weeks. I’ve shopped around and trying to get the best deal possible on the car I want.
Here’s where I’m at:
MSRP: 59,220
Sale price: 54,482 (8% discount)
MF: .00156 (US Bank) - if I heard correctly
ResFactor: 61%
DAS: $2301 (“minimum”)
Monthly: $786 (incl tax) for 36mo / 10k mi/yr
A few questions/concerns:
Is this a good/bad deal? Why?
Other SoCal users have posted offers on here with an MF of .00105 very recently, and the higher MF I was quoted is definitely hurting my monthly payment. I heard US Bank bumped their rate up a bit this month, but at least two other offers on this forum within the last 5 days used the lower MF (.00105). Why is mine more and is there any way to get it down?
I’ve read that PFS is generally better to deal with than US Bank, so I also got a PFS quote for this same car and it came out to $842/mo (incl. tax), I assume due to the higher MF and lower Residual Factor. Is it worth $56/mo more to go with PFS over US Bank? I’m thinking not.
I tried to use the leasehacker calculator with the US Bank numbers above, and it’s showing $713/mo (including tax). Wondering what I’m missing – could there be extra fees driving up the monthly cost? What can I ask the dealer to get to the bottom of this discrepancy?
Any input/feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
True, which I why I put “minimum” in quotes. That’s first month plus acquisition fee and a few other smaller fees. I might roll everything in except the fist monthly payment, and then I’m looking at around 827/mo.
I might be wrong, but this doesn’t make a big difference in terms of how good of a deal/offer this is. I just feel like I’m doing something wrong when other people are getting almost $100 less per month for essentially the same thing, e.g.: 2019 Porsche Macan Lease Help
I would wholly advise you to stay away from US Bank, or any third party bank, for that matter. PFS should be the only option you’re choosing, if for no other reason than Peace of Mind that disposition won’t be a complete clusterfuck, especially if there are dings or small dents on the vehicle. If the PFS MF makes the payments too expensive for you to handle, you should be looking at other manufacturers.
Any advice on the MF? Still trying to understand how people in the same city, in the same week were offered .00105 vs. the .00156 I was quoted. Could the dealer be marking this up?
Even at .00156, I can’t figure out how the payment works out to $786. The leasehackr calculator comes up quite a bit less.
Regarding PFS vs. US Bank, thanks for the input. With a $2000 difference in the total cost of lease, PFS might be worth it. I’ve heard they automatically forgive $1000 in minor dings/scratches, but it sounds like US Bank could hit me with a lot more. The 1yr pull ahead for PFS isn’t a big priority for me on the other hand.
MF is set by bank. USB may have higher the PFS? Also, some dealers will mark it up for additional back-end profit. Make sure you get the base MF set by the bank. Gluck
My PFS quote has a higher MF (.0028) and lower Res Factor (58%). Brings the monthly payments up by $56/mo. Tempting based on what people are saying here.
I guess the US Bank program is new for the Macans, so nobody has turned one in yet. But I’m image the experience with USB is basically the same regardless of manufacturer, so I’m taking the warnings seriously
Anyway I’m asking for confirmation that this is the base MF set by the bank. Thanks for the tip @boozinix
Talk to @AudiGuan or @DonnyAudi. When I leased my Q5 the deals were actually better before Summer of Audi. They just play with the MF to offset the Summer of Audi “deal”.
What’s wrong with that, aside from paying interest on them for the duration of the loan?
To me it’s a trade off…you may pay a few dollars more (depending on MF, anywhere from pennies to a couple hundred dollars), but if you trade in early, get stolen/totalled, you’ll be way ahead.
@manku that’s also my operating assumption. I’m more focused on getting the best deal, and whether or not I roll in those fees is something I will decide at the end.
MF seems to be a sticking point in the deal I’m working on, so wondering how I can get it lower.
I pushed the dealer I was working with on the point that the MF he quoted me is higher that what I’ve seen elsewhere, and his response was that his sales manager quoted based on “above average” credit, even though they haven’t run my credit yet and earlier he said the monthly price was based on 740+…