Never assume. Their sheet shows that as a “purchase option” and doesn’t actually state anywhere that that’s your cap cost.
Have you filled out the leasehackr calculator with those numbers to see what it gives you as far as what the payment should be?
I also read that it’s not a good idea to give the dealer a number because it will be harder to go below this number, so I could potentially miss a better offer.
Cap Cost is to lease as OTD to finance.
Selling price “can” be the cap cost. But Cap Cost can also be inceptions+selling price+++
That’s why I think from a negotiation standpoint its better to talk Cap Cost including inceptions. That way you can always decide if you want to put a downpayment.
That’s the tricky part the dealer tries to do or people struggle with evaluating a good deal vs a ok or bad deal.
Devil is in the details.
Your cap cost should included all rebates, incetives, dealer fees, etc. in your spreadsheet leading up to cap cost just add dealer fee and subtract it on a second line. I have never paid a dealer fee.
Is it on my contract? Of course, but its discounted out of the sales price. Among other things, like marked up tag agency fees, dealer added options ect.
I agree don’t bid against yourself, ever.
Always have them tell you their number first.
Depending how much time you have to negotiate, you can drag out the process and push.
I can confirm that this is the correct money factor.