Security Deposit: None
Total Due At Signing: $2500
Monthly Payment (incl. tax): $307
Zip Code: 98198
Sales Tax Rate: 10.3%
Leasehackr Score: Didn’t run through calculator
Worked this deal for a family member. Sorry, I don’t have the exact numbers, as I don’t have the paperwork in front of me. I’m just going off what I negotiated via email. The selling price is what we agreed to via email, but I believe I negotiated a couple hundred off when at the dealer. $2500 down included the following:
$307 first month payment
$1340.11 cap reduction/ down payment
$153.89 sales tax on cap reduction
$549 license
$150 doc fee
I know it’s not the best deal. Just wanted to share for anyone else looking at the same vehicle. I normally don’t put a down, but my family member really wanted this car and needed a lower monthly payment.
Can you explain how you came up with an effective payment of $376 per month? I’m coming up with $314 on the calculator, and I know for sure the selling price was less after the deal was done, as the actual monthly came out to $307. Even without the down on the calculator, and the same figures, I’m at $356.
And steep in comparison to what? Other Legacy deals? Purchase price? Monthly payment? Other comparable vehicles? Genuinely would like to know for future lease deals.
They were set on this car. Credit was fine. The money factor and residual is what found online, so I don’t think the dealer adjusted this for their profit. Yes, there are always cheaper leases out there, but this is the car they wanted.
Show me a what a good deal is on this same model/package in WA. The purchase price is the the only thing that could have been negotiated further. I haven’t ever been successful in waiving a doc fee here. I started at 20% off MSRP and was only able to get to 12% off with the local dealers I reached out to. So I’m curious what you are seeing out there.
No offense, but I’ve been on this forum for less than a year now. All I see are the typical responses to the OP that “you could have got a better deal”, but they are usually referring to a completely different car/model, different state, or just trolling/bragging. They aren’t really helping each other - hey try dealer A for a better price, check for these incentives, etc. I posted this for anyone looking at the same car, with hopes they could use it as a baseline for a better deal.
Thanks Ursus. Different car and state, but that definitely helps. Hopefully whoever is looking at a legacy will use the Outback’s 16% off MSRP as a negotiation tool.
