2017 Dodge Durango GT AWD analysis needed

Ask the Hackrs
1

So happy to have found this site. Anyway this is what I have.

2017 Dodge Durango GT AWD w/ premium group and blacktop package

Dealer said that chrysler won’t be able to tough the IDL deals.

MSRP : 44180
Through teachers
Residual 54%
MF .00125
12,000/yr
39 months
24357 buyout (which is actually closer to 55% of the MSRP not 54%)

Incentives
Northeast 2017 Bonus Cash NECHA $1,000
Northeast BC 2017 IDL Bonus Cash NELHA $5,250
2017 Conquest Lease to Retail/Lease 38CHA1 $1,000 (since I currently have a Hyundai lease)

TRUECar Average is $39,770 with the following checked (each for $1,000)
2017 Dodge Durango Retail Customer Cash Allowance (not sure how this related to the incentives I got from the dealer)
2017 Dodge Durango Bonus Cash (assuming this is the Northeast 2017 Bonus Cash NECHA?)

If I continue to check more boxes (2017 Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, RAM Conquest Lease to Retail/Lease Bonus Cash for $1,000) the TRUECar price doesn’t change. Same no change for the (GEICO Customer Savings for $200).

Edmunds lists as incentives
Customer Cash Allowance $1,000
Regional Customer Bonus Cash $1,000
Conquest Customer Bonus Cash $1,000
Regional IDL Bonus Cash $5,250

Did not talk any final prices or cap reduction past the incentives as the car was still in transit and would be arriving in the next couple days. By the way this is for Long Island, NY and the tax rate is 8.625%.

So here are my questions

  1. Does all this cash go into tax or untaxed incenvites?
  2. What is up with the TRUECar price and should that be the price I use BEFORE all incentives (if I uncheck the two incentives that I had checked above the TRUECar price jumps up by 1920 (which is close to 2000 but not exactly 2000)?
  3. I read another post saying that with a dodge you should start off with taking 4k off the MSRP and then applying all incentives. Not sure how this works? I guess my biggest problem is differentiating between reduction of MSRP vs incentives.
  4. MF is 3% which seems a bit high to me. I guess the huge amount of IDL offsets this?

Thanks for all info. Very much appreciated. I do find all the research/calculations to be quite interesting while also trying to obtain the best deal possible. Incentives seem easy enough to ascertain but I guess the main game is negotiation off the MSRP.

2

  1. If it’s not particularly useful or too confusing, don’t use Truecar. Spend that time instead looking at Edmunds’ Price Paid forum and any Dodge Forum threads where price is discussed. Which brings me to my next point.

  2. Always look at the most detailed posts and try to figure out…

(MSRP * X%) - rebates = selling price.

You need to know this because someone could have more or less rebates than you, which could mean their final price was more or less than yours, but knowing how much of a discount before rebates is crucial.

For instance, I looked at a car and found the following: they were going for 10-12% off MSRP before rebates. I bid the dealer 12% off MSRP. The rebates came straight from the OEM so the dealer wasn’t affected by them. As far as he was concerned, he was selling the car for 12% off. As far as I was concerned, I was getting the car for 12% off, and then an additional $2,000 rebate after that.

3

What is the sales price dealer giving befire rebates? What is the payment? They will not give you true car and then all rebates since those rebates in true car are usually for purchase. Go check dodge.com and it will give you rebates just for leasing.

4

What did you wind up getting the gt for on your lease…looking for one now. Just trying to see where I should be aroumd.