I signed up for some northeast sweepstakes last month and was emailed a OL code for $1000. I got the info from this forum about the “thousand ways to say thank you”
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It is slow to charge and 80 miles will pretty much get you to the bottom 10% in the battery capacity. Assuming you charge the vehicle for 12-14 hours daily you might get enough juice to complete your commute.
However with that kind of commute you will need way more than 15K miles. More like 20K odd just for commute and I didn’t even counted weekend use.
I can say level 1 charger is not going to do it for you. If you can’t include the cost of level 2 charger installation and get the cost covered in 24 months you should consider other cars.
Depending on your electricity rates the cost of installing the level II charger should be covered before 24 months.
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Thanks so much for the information. I do have another car for commute if needed. I just want to gather all the facts before making my decision.
@1999sel I agree with @HN308, with your long commute, a lease may not be the best option, but definitely consider a level 2 charger into the cost if you’re going to use it for commuting. I mean, you could alternate between your 2 vehicles.
but about the investment for a level 2 charger, I think after driving the i3 for a while you might decide to continue buying EV’s anyhow (or at least that’s what i expect is going to happen for me).
Lucky for me, my workplace has a level 2 charger, which is free use, so I plan to do the majority of my charging at work and don’t have as long a commute as you do.
@blablabla Thanks for this! will definitely make sure to check the glove compartment first!
I did more research and found out that my house only have a 100amp circuit breaker. So it will be a bigger investment to upgrade and install a level 2 charger. I really want to try the EV with this attractive lease. However it doesn’t really work out for me. Thanks for your advice.
FYI, Honda Clarity Electricity comes with 20,000 miles standard. CA only though, and you’ll still have the issue with not getting enough juice for full charge.
I’m in Jersey, how can I get this deal?
I have had the i3 REX for 25 months now and have only filled the tank 2 times. The car automatically does a maintenance cycle when the gas is left unused for a long time.
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I know you can’t match the deal because CA taxes rebates, but can you do anything close? I have a 528i lease expiring in 40 days.
Hi my hero @HN308, I live in NJ, and I am desperate to have a great deal as yours! Please email me leiyupeng@gmail.com and help me close a deal, I will return a favor of $200 if you don’t mind. Thanks.
Have you ever heard of PM?
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Hi All,
I have read over this thread maybe twenty times now. My wife and I have a lease that’s due up in two weeks and we are scrambling for a deal. I’ve driven an i3 for a few days and a Bolt, my garage has the infrastructure and I am ready to go!
I laid out the numbers in a schedule but can’t convert the residual, cap amount, MF to a monthly payment. I used a formula off the net and the output was jibberish. Can anybody lay out what gets multiplied by what to arrive at the one pay, Let’s use @HN308’s numbers.
Also, @HN308, why did it take four hours with the sales/finance guy to get this through? I thought you said you simply called around and ignored the ones that didn’t come back with a reasonable discount. Four hours or back and forth calling? or, were you done four hours later.
The LH calculator will give you a one-pay price underneath the monthly price (total cost of lease) and you can manipulate the variables.
Thanks. Rookie oversight on my part.
Sorry, first time response in leasehackr, after I post, I have PM him/her as well. Thanks for the tip.
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I have screenshot in this thread posted 10 days back which shows my numbers. Depending on what incentives you qualify for you need to change the taxed incentives and if you are in NJ put 0% as tax rate.
I spent most time with finance manager because my deal was so good after discounts and rebates that the system won’t let it go through as the Cap cost (selling price less incentives) was less than Residual which in lay terms means the price I was buying the car for today is LESS than what BMW assumes to be the residual value of the cars 2 years and 24K miles later. Do you see the problem there? I knew it would happen so came up with various ways to solve that problem and it took me some time to explain the finance manager what to do and he had to get approval from his boss before it went through. All this along with a technically challenged finance manager who had never heard of CTRL+ALT+Del to get into task manager to kill hung up applications and yes the finance app got stuck few times and all that took most of the time.
Again I never do my negotiations in the dealership, I always do it over the phone/email and politely let the sales person know he can loose my lead as soon as I hang up that call so I usually don’t get the standard run around and come over to dealership for best price BS.
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@blablabla I don’t see any card in glovebox. Did the dealer mention that to you? Or you just happen to find it?
You can also right-click on the task bar
Agreed. However he had no clue what the Task Manager was and what you could do there.
He said if the system stopped responding for a while he would just try to do a complete Shutdown and restart.
Finding 3 buttons on keyboard and pressing them simultaneously may be too hard for him, hence one click solution 