Been hunting for a lease for a few weeks now in Florida on a Chevy or Cadillac EV since they seem to have the most rebates.
Talked with my dad in Wisconsin, and come to find out, they are also looking to lease a Chevy EV with added benefit that they qualify for GM Supplier.
So, my thought is to close a deal for them in Wisconsin and maybe use that to my advantage to lease one for myself from the same dealer and have shipped here to Florida since dealer fees are around 1/4 the cost.
Anyone have experience if that would be more enticing for a dealer to give up a better deal?
I’m not sure how quickly I can turn around and use their friend and family on the supplier discount.
Also, if I plan to sign in December, is it worth it to sign up for Costco since it seems to refresh each month?
I also qualify for Conquest and Teacher Discount.
My parents have Conquest and GM Supplier and will most likely trade in their 2018 Nissan Rogue with $2000ish of negative equity.
I appreciate any help on how to approach this and walk away with a great deal on 2 GM EVs
As I say to all of my customers who propose extra discounts for buying two cars: “There is nothing enticing to my dealer about losing extra money to sell two vehicles instead of one that is already at a loss”.
Get a good deal on one, then mention you want another for yourself after you accomplish that deal.
Do dealers ever really sell a vehicle at a loss? If they do, I assume it is to avoid a larger loss that would be incurred by having it on the lot even longer.
I agree with you. I think the term “loss” is relative, especially when it comes to a lease. The sale price listed is just a number on a line in a contract. I’m sure that will not be a popular statement but there is no way that they “lose” on any deal-just make less.
How about when they’re a few units short of some target for a bonus or an allocation? Still not enticing? Or how about two minis? Why automatically assume a loss, which BTW could mean different things to different dealers?
I think you should bring it up much earlier in the conversation as soon as you get some real traction with a dealer. Might also help you gauge how good of a deal they’re giving you if they say they can only do one car at that price. Then you can take that contract and shop elsewhere.
I like the idea. Maybe bring it up in conversation that I’m looking locally but the dealer fees in Florida are crazy. Might be enough for a good sales guy to hook onto.
Let me go back to some other questions on my og post.
Anyone know how quick I can use the F&F on GM Supplier after my parents close their deal? Also, worth getting the Costco membership before the end of November?
We’re talking “great vs good” deal here if the dealer refuses to move two cars at that price. Also, OP doesn’t seem to have a lot of experience in this, so adjust your expectations accordingly.
To answer one your questions, most of us have Costco and kind of kill two birds with one stone.
Their are frequently “sign up for $65 membership, get a $40 gift card to Costco” deals which makes your membership obv $25 using that example.
You have to be a member before an auto promotion starts. Most likely you can find $65 worth of savings at Costco throughout the year, with the caveat that you may also walk out with purchases that you don’t need.
You can also cancel the membership after the first year and just reinstate it if you see an auto deal pop up in subsequent years and still be eligible.
Then the proper thing to do is focus on imparting the skills to establish a strong target deal, not skip that in favor of going into the lion’s den for slaughter.
Yeah, I made a semi-educated guess based on what I saw from OP and now he fessed up to being a complete noob. So, start reading up, build some knowledge base and see what you can do with that. Take a good look at the Marketplace offerings, use them as a reference point and if you can’t beat them, join them. GL!
Yes, it happens literally every day, and I’m not talking hypothetical losses either, I’m talking real, hard, cash losses even after invoice and holdback.
